My new/old Buddy

bigmike7801 · Post by **bigmike7801** » Fri Mar 06, 2015 9:26 pm

Just picked up a 2007 Buddy 125 with 733 miles on it for $800.

It's been sitting for about 3 years and currently isn't running. Has a couple of scratches and dings, but all in all, I think it will make do.

Fargo Rollin · Post by **Fargo Rollin** » Fri Mar 06, 2015 10:44 pm

Keep us posted on the journey to its resurrection!

DeeDee · Post by **DeeDee** » Fri Mar 06, 2015 11:50 pm

I think you got a great buy on that. I've always thought the Italia was Buddy's best two-tone color combo. Last summer I test rode one of those here in Denver. The owner had it registered as a 50cc, so the title was a mess. I didn't want to straighten it out, so I ended up with a Black one.

Kevinpsu160 · Post by **Kevinpsu160** » Sat Mar 07, 2015 12:08 am

Awesome buy-- I picked up a 2009 Genuine 150 last week. I know you weren't asking for advice but here is what I learned from getting my scooter to run after sitting for almost two years.

1.) Replaced the battery with this one-- http://www.ebay.com/itm/STX7A-BS-Powers ... 1706887961?

2.) Replaced the spark plug

3.) Drained and cleaned the gas tank.

4.) Cleaned the bottom end of the carburetor (the jets and float valve). I read that the top of the carb is tricky to clean and get back together. So I avoided cleaning it and my scooter runs fine. Make sure you really clean the float valve or the scooter will flood. I had to use a drill with a Qtip and metal polish to get the float valve clean. I found the carburetor cleaner did not clean the float valve good enough. The float valve should fall out if turned upside down.

5.) Changed oil and gear oil.

It was a fun project. Once you get it running it will be well worth you time and effort. Good Luck and keep us posted. This forum has awesome people that will help you if you need it.

bigmike7801 · Post by **bigmike7801** » Sat Mar 07, 2015 1:55 am

What steps did you follow to disassemble the bottom part of the carb?

Also what fluids did you use for oil and gears?

Kevinpsu160 · Post by **Kevinpsu160** » Sat Mar 07, 2015 5:09 am

Here is the steps that were shared with me. Only I just replaced the spark plug ($2.50) and battery ($23.00).

viewtopic.php?t=20718&highlight=clean+125+carb

Turn the carburetor over and take out the three screws holding the carburetor body together. Don't take out the two screws on the top of the carburetor unless you want to clean the top also.

Two remove the float needle you will have to take out the philips head screw holding the float pin in place. Remove the screw and the pin. The plastic float should come out. Clean this with water and make sure there are no cracks or damage to it. To get the float needle out you will probably need needle nose pliers to carefully remove it. Once you remove the float needle, clean it really good so it is totally clean (no stains). To clean the hole for the float needle, I got some metal polish from ACE hardware. I put some of the polish on a Q-tip and put the other end of the Q-tip in my drill. I inserted the Q-tip into the float valve hole and ran it for about 30 sec. The Q-tip should turn black if it is working. I did this twice with a new Q-tip the second time. I then cleaned out all of the polish with carburetor cleaner. To test if it is good put the float valve into the polished hole and turn the carburetor piece upside down. The float valve should fall right out. If it doesn't you need to clean both parts some more. If the float valve isn't clean then the gas to the carburetor will not shut off when the float bowl is full. You will flood the engine and gas will start to come out the over flow tube (plastic tube L shaped tube at the top of the carburetor) and the air filter box.

You will also want to clean the jets. I used carb cleaner and a very thin guitar string. You want a very thin wire so you don't make the holes in the jets bigger. There are many, many holes in the jets that you have to clean. You should see light through them when they are clean. Carb cleaner will not do the trick. You have to use a wire also. Good luck-- Take your time and this scooter will be running in no time. Ask questions and someone here will help you out.

The motor oil I used was 15w40. I will have to check on the gear oil. I think some people on here use 10w40. My Buddy 150 book says to use 15w40 so I went with that.

bigmike7801 · Post by **bigmike7801** » Mon Mar 09, 2015 4:50 am

Did you have to access the drain bolt under the carb first? If so, is it a flathead or phillips head screw?

Kevinpsu160 · Post by **Kevinpsu160** » Mon Mar 09, 2015 1:13 pm

It is a phillips head. It is kind of tricky getting to the screw. If you are sitting on the scooter it is on the right side of the carb and underneath it. If you can't get to the screw, don't worry about it. You will drain the carb once you take off the bottom.

bigmike7801 · Post by **bigmike7801** » Mon Mar 09, 2015 2:08 pm

Kevinpsu160 wrote:It is a phillips head. It is kind of tricky getting to the screw. If you are sitting on the scooter it is on the right side of the carb and underneath it. If you can't get to the screw, don't worry about it. You will drain the carb once you take off the bottom.

Thank you!

Did you remove the whole carb assembly from the scooter and then just leave the top end intact when cleaning it?

Dooglas · Post by **Dooglas** » Mon Mar 09, 2015 3:39 pm

Kevinpsu160 wrote:There are many, many holes in the jets that you have to clean.

Huh? I agree with most everything else you said, but this one puzzled me.

Kevinpsu160 · Post by **Kevinpsu160** » Mon Mar 09, 2015 5:08 pm

I am referring to the small holes on the needle jet base. I had a friend clean a Yamaha PW50 carburetor once and spent three times cleaning before it worked properly. The problem was one of the small holes on the needle jet was clogged.

Kevinpsu160 · Post by **Kevinpsu160** » Mon Mar 09, 2015 5:21 pm

I never took out the two screws that hold the top end of carburetor. My carburetor didn't function properly because it sat 1.5 years with gas in it. I figured that most of the problems would be in the bottom half of carburetor. If cleaning the jets and float didn't work, I would have taken the whole carburetor apart to clean it. Always start simple

Kevinpsu160 · Post by **Kevinpsu160** » Mon Mar 09, 2015 5:25 pm

Here is a good video about cleaning the needle float.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zlez_hdoWYk

mikebuddy · Post by **mikebuddy** » Tue Mar 10, 2015 7:29 pm

be sure to drain and change all oils again after 100 miles or so, to be sure all old sticky oil is out

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