I just got a Blur!!!
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I just got a Blur!!!
Hello!
I just got a Blur! I have been looking for a new commuting machine and after trying out the Sym HD 200 and the Blur, the Blur won. I have to give a shout out to the guys at Scooters Go Green in Boston, they are great.
From the Blur owners out there, is there anything I should be aware of or keep in mind as a new owner?
I just got a Blur! I have been looking for a new commuting machine and after trying out the Sym HD 200 and the Blur, the Blur won. I have to give a shout out to the guys at Scooters Go Green in Boston, they are great.
From the Blur owners out there, is there anything I should be aware of or keep in mind as a new owner?
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Re: I just got a Blur!!!
Interesting. I just discovered the Sym HD200 after buying my Blur a couple of weeks ago and wondered if I may have made a mistake as the Sym seems pretty cool with it's liquid cooled 4valve 170cc which equals our 220cc's power. I have never been on a Sym. What about the Blur made you decide on it instead of the HD200(the flat black paint version looks pretty bad ass as well)?claygone wrote:Hello!
I just got a Blur! I have been looking for a new commuting machine and after trying out the Sym HD 200 and the Blur, the Blur won. I have to give a shout out to the guys at Scooters Go Green in Boston, they are great.
From the Blur owners out there, is there anything I should be aware of or keep in mind as a new owner?
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I don't have my title yet, I should get in the week. When I have that i can give you the build date.chickdr wrote:Another question for you. You list yours as a 2013 model. What did the Certificate of Origin say the build date was? Mine was key tagged as a 2012 model, but the COO said 6/11 build date which to me means it is a 2011.claygone wrote:I got the white one.skully93 wrote:which color?
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Congrats on getting a spectacular multi-purpose sport scoot. I'd recommend the windshield, but shy away from the rear rack if you are mounting a top case. Also, the Alaska Leather "Butt pad" in the smallest size is a perfect fit for the Blur. When you are all broken in and want a little more pep, some Dr. Pully sliders in a lighter weight will satisfy.
One of these days I'm going to try my idea for supporting my panniers so they don't look quite so saggy. I need some additional storage on my scoot and the panniers look very good when they are empty.
One of these days I'm going to try my idea for supporting my panniers so they don't look quite so saggy. I need some additional storage on my scoot and the panniers look very good when they are empty.
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Re: I just got a Blur!!!
I just learned about a week ago that the scooter performs so much better with the tires closer to 40psi vs the 30psi they recommend. Mine are at 39psi cold pressure. freeway power and gas mileage changed drastically.claygone wrote:Hello!
I just got a Blur! I have been looking for a new commuting machine and after trying out the Sym HD 200 and the Blur, the Blur won. I have to give a shout out to the guys at Scooters Go Green in Boston, they are great.
From the Blur owners out there, is there anything I should be aware of or keep in mind as a new owner?
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The build date was 3.30.2012chickdr wrote:Another question for you. You list yours as a 2013 model. What did the Certificate of Origin say the build date was? Mine was key tagged as a 2012 model, but the COO said 6/11 build date which to me means it is a 2011.claygone wrote:I got the white one.skully93 wrote:which color?
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Rippinyarn wrote:Congrats on getting a spectacular multi-purpose sport scoot. I'd recommend the windshield, but shy away from the rear rack if you are mounting a top case. Also, the Alaska Leather "Butt pad" in the smallest size is a perfect fit for the Blur. When you are all broken in and want a little more pep, some Dr. Pully sliders in a lighter weight will satisfy.
One of these days I'm going to try my idea for supporting my panniers so they don't look quite so saggy. I need some additional storage on my scoot and the panniers look very good when they are empty.
Thank you. I will get the windshield, that is a must. What should I do to mount a top case to the Blur with no rack? Also is there a top case that you suggest?
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Interesting. I wonder how they figure the model year. How would a scooter built in March of 2012 be considered a 2013 model? Mine being built in 6/11 would be a 2012 according to this regime. I am going to contact Genuine and ask about it.claygone wrote:The build date was 3.30.2012chickdr wrote:Another question for you. You list yours as a 2013 model. What did the Certificate of Origin say the build date was? Mine was key tagged as a 2012 model, but the COO said 6/11 build date which to me means it is a 2011.claygone wrote: I got the white one.
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Yeah, it's lame. Mine was manufactured in August 2011, and was keytagged as an '11 Model. My official paperwork lists it as an '11.chickdr wrote:Interesting. I wonder how they figure the model year. How would a scooter built in March of 2012 be considered a 2013 model? Mine being built in 6/11 would be a 2012 according to this regime. I am going to contact Genuine and ask about it.claygone wrote:The build date was 3.30.2012chickdr wrote: Another question for you. You list yours as a 2013 model. What did the Certificate of Origin say the build date was? Mine was key tagged as a 2012 model, but the COO said 6/11 build date which to me means it is a 2011.
There was another forum member who also had one manufactured in Feb/March 2012 [Ormund...he deleted all his posts a while back?] and his was a 2013 model.
I'll be honest, it really bummed me out. Half a year difference in actual manufacturing date, but two years difference by model number. It'll really mess with the resale value in the future. If I told you I had a 2005 and a 2007 vehicle with the same mileage...most people would want the '07 and would probably consider it worth more. Especially if I told you they were both serviced five times. (hey, it's two years younger and clearly was serviced more frequently).
At the least I wish mine had been marked as a '12. /whine
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Yep- so if yours was built in 8/11 then my 6/11 bike is most certainly is an '11 model. Funny that my key tag said 2012 on it... A bit deceptive. I will see what Genuine has to say.Edwub wrote:Yeah, it's lame. Mine was manufactured in August 2011, and was keytagged as an '11 Model. My official paperwork lists it as an '11.
There was another forum member who also had one manufactured in Feb/March 2012 [Ormund...he deleted all his posts a while back?] and his was a 2013 model.
I'll be honest, it really bummed me out. Half a year difference in actual manufacturing date, but two years difference by model number. It'll really mess with the resale value in the future. If I told you I had a 2005 and a 2007 vehicle with the same mileage...most people would want the '07 and would probably consider it worth more. Especially if I told you they were both serviced five times. (hey, it's two years younger and clearly was serviced more frequently).
At the least I wish mine had been marked as a '12. /whine
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Hmm, I'm not sure. If your key tag said '12 on it, your dealer may have registered it as a '12 model. I'd check your registration paperwork to see what your state recognizes it as. Mine is definitely officially registered as an '11.chickdr wrote:Yep- so if yours was built in 8/11 then my 6/11 bike is most certainly is an '11 model. Funny that my key tag said 2012 on it... A bit deceptive. I will see what Genuine has to say.Edwub wrote:Yeah, it's lame. Mine was manufactured in August 2011, and was keytagged as an '11 Model. My official paperwork lists it as an '11.
There was another forum member who also had one manufactured in Feb/March 2012 [Ormund...he deleted all his posts a while back?] and his was a 2013 model.
I'll be honest, it really bummed me out. Half a year difference in actual manufacturing date, but two years difference by model number. It'll really mess with the resale value in the future. If I told you I had a 2005 and a 2007 vehicle with the same mileage...most people would want the '07 and would probably consider it worth more. Especially if I told you they were both serviced five times. (hey, it's two years younger and clearly was serviced more frequently).
At the least I wish mine had been marked as a '12. /whine
But if you find anything out from Genuine, please let us know. I'd love to go to the DMV and change my year <.<
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Edwub wrote:chickdr wrote:I figured out how to tell today. Don't know why I missed this before but on the back wall of the storage bin there is a sticker about emission/noise levels. Mine clearly states: "This 2011 Blur ss220i motorcycle". So unless Genuine is screwing with paperwork there are no 2013 Blur's around as they haven't been manufactured yet... The newest Blur's anyone could buy are 2012 models. I am a bit disappointed in my dealer having the scooter marked as a 2012 on the key tag, but maybe it was an "honest mistake"(LOL).Edwub wrote:Yeah, it's lame. Mine was manufactured in August 2011, and was keytagged as an '11 Model. My official paperwork lists it as an '11.
There was another forum member who also had one manufactured in Feb/March 2012 [Ormund...he deleted all his posts a while back?] and his was a 2013 model.
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claygone wrote:Thank you. I will get the windshield, that is a must. What should I do to mount a top case to the Blur with no rack? Also is there a top case that you suggest?
I had an Ebay special top box and did the trick using a nylon cutting board to match the base plate up to the rack. The Genuine rack is fine and is actually pretty stout, but use some RED locktite on it and check the bolts frequently. I think it was a combination of our crappy roads here in Detroit and some of the bolts loosening that caused my rack to snap. I'm working on a trick with supporting some cheapish Amazon panniers/side bags and will update in a new thread once I get that sorted.
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OK just got a reply from Genuine(which makes no sense to me):
"On your vin# just look at the [last] 10 digits, if it is a C it is a 2012 if it is a D it is a 2013. While the 2013 are out now, we have made no changes to the scooter."
I don't understand how my scooter manufactured in 6/11 would be a 2011 while one manufactured in 6/12 would be a 2013...
He also said the 2014's will have no changes as well so i guess they are not discontinuing it yet.
"On your vin# just look at the [last] 10 digits, if it is a C it is a 2012 if it is a D it is a 2013. While the 2013 are out now, we have made no changes to the scooter."
I don't understand how my scooter manufactured in 6/11 would be a 2011 while one manufactured in 6/12 would be a 2013...
He also said the 2014's will have no changes as well so i guess they are not discontinuing it yet.
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Resale value. If you had a choice of a 2011, 12 or 13 and even if the 11 was a couple of hundred less(as mine was) which would you buy? If you sold it next year an 11 will be less valuable than a 13 even in the same condition/mileage.Southerner wrote:I agree that it sounds funny, but if they haven't changed, how does it make a difference?
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Kind of confusing explanation from Genuine.
All vehicles manufactured since 1981 use a 17 character VIN.
All 17 character VIN's, regarding year and build sequence are based off the last 8 characters.
Beginning in 1981, the year character, the first position of the last eight, was a letter, that letter was a B.
Certain letters are not used because they can be confused with other letters....they are: I, O, Q, U, Z.
The letter designation ended in MY 2000 with a Y in the first position of the last eight characters.......Y2K, get it?
Beginning in 2001, the first position of the last eight became numeric....we ran out of letters.
So, all motor vehicles from 2001 through 2009 used a corresponding digit in this position, ie 2007= 7*******........2008=8******* etcetera.
Beginning in MY 2010, the eighth position from the end reverted back to alpha characters, so, 2010= A******* and the alphs system will continue till....uh...2020? if I am thinking clearly.
Again, this applies to all motor vehicles sold in the U.S.A.
It is used in some other countries as well but it is not universal.....for example, a motor vehicle manufactured in China and only marketed in China, may only have a six or seven character VIN.
So, regardless of when the machine was constructed, the eigth character from the end is the absolute, definitive, zero confusion Model Year of the vehicle if it was sold in the U.S.A. beginning in 1981........ and, to further muddy the waters, most, but not all manufacturers did use the system in 1980......lets stay away from that one though.
Helped any?
Rob
PS,
Just to clarify for this thread.....A 2011 uses B......A 2012 uses C......A 2013 uses D.
All vehicles manufactured since 1981 use a 17 character VIN.
All 17 character VIN's, regarding year and build sequence are based off the last 8 characters.
Beginning in 1981, the year character, the first position of the last eight, was a letter, that letter was a B.
Certain letters are not used because they can be confused with other letters....they are: I, O, Q, U, Z.
The letter designation ended in MY 2000 with a Y in the first position of the last eight characters.......Y2K, get it?
Beginning in 2001, the first position of the last eight became numeric....we ran out of letters.
So, all motor vehicles from 2001 through 2009 used a corresponding digit in this position, ie 2007= 7*******........2008=8******* etcetera.
Beginning in MY 2010, the eighth position from the end reverted back to alpha characters, so, 2010= A******* and the alphs system will continue till....uh...2020? if I am thinking clearly.
Again, this applies to all motor vehicles sold in the U.S.A.
It is used in some other countries as well but it is not universal.....for example, a motor vehicle manufactured in China and only marketed in China, may only have a six or seven character VIN.
So, regardless of when the machine was constructed, the eigth character from the end is the absolute, definitive, zero confusion Model Year of the vehicle if it was sold in the U.S.A. beginning in 1981........ and, to further muddy the waters, most, but not all manufacturers did use the system in 1980......lets stay away from that one though.
Helped any?
Rob
PS,
Just to clarify for this thread.....A 2011 uses B......A 2012 uses C......A 2013 uses D.
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As Robbie said more eloquently than me, or Genuine, the last 10 digits of the VIN will include a letter. If the letter is B=2011, C=2012, D=2013. As I said previously you can also look for the emissions label inside the storage bin. It will say "This 20XX Blur ss220i motorcycle..."SuperFlyBuddy wrote:Huh?chickdr wrote:"On your vin# just look at the [last] 10 digits, if it is a C it is a 2012 if it is a D it is a 2013. While the 2013 are out now, we have made no changes to the scooter."
How do the last ten digits equal a C or D?
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SuperFlyBuddy wrote:Huh?chickdr wrote:"On your vin# just look at the [last] 10 digits, if it is a C it is a 2012 if it is a D it is a 2013. While the 2013 are out now, we have made no changes to the scooter."
How do the last ten digits equal a C or D?
Im pretty sure they mean the 10th digit on your VIN# is the letter that corresponds to what year the model is. b=2011 c=2012=d=2013