Modern Buddy

I'm fairly certain the frame and mount points are the same but wanted to check with any buckten owners to see what they thought.

Rattler:



No idea what's under the RH gauges.

No need to worry about the gauges... When I'm done it's either going to be no gauges, or going to use the KOSO xr-sa. What I'm worried about is the mounting of the head gear. I'm sure it's the same... but I need some measurements.

I'm watching the DB-01R SPEEDOMETER from KOSO, it has a tach too which the SA does not... might kill two birds with one stone there spr0k3t

It's not the speedo or instrument cluster I'm worried about. I can deal with that component when I get to it. What I'm after is the mounting depths and connection sizes for the top of the tripple-tree for the gooseneck so I can mount my own handlebars. What I'm looking to find out is if I need to replace the entire front fork assembly or if I can just go with the Rattler handlebar mount on the stock RH50 post.

You can check out exploded fork assemblies here: http://www.scooterloungeonline.com/

They "look" the same.

Thanks for that. I'm fairly certain it is going to work... now i just need to get measurements to be sure.

Thanks for the detailed information there Lotrat. I did some digging and found the entire upper bearing mounts are the exact same parts for both sets on the RH50 and the Rattler. Right down to the thread patterns even.

So, the upper mounting components for the Rattler 110 on the tripple tree is the exact same mounting components on the RH50. So then, new parts have been ordered. YAY!

Post pics when you're done!

Believe me... I'll be taking pics during the process, not just the completed product.

sproket, I was at scooterworld today, had a 110 in the back. The handlebar setup is nice, looks expensive. Well 2 expensive for me anyway. Are you staying with the stock crank on your build? How does it compare to a zuma?

Yeah, I was there today as well. I stopped in to purchase some equipment. Going to stick with the stock crank for now. If I have a blow on the build (which is likely to happen the way it will be built) I will either replace the crank or go for a full 150cc upgrade with custom mounts, then rebuild the original 50cc. As for the handlebar setup, the whole rig would be too expensive, all I'm after is just the gooseneck so I can use my own equipment (handlebars, cable runs, etc).

Stock Zuma vs a stock Roughhouse, the Roughhouse will win every time factoring in the same rider. I'm going to be doing some more GPS running tonight to get a better feel for the stock speeds. The Zuma is much easier to mod considering much of the upgrade parts can be used from some Hondas. The biggest problem with the Zuma is going through all of the derestrictions that are needed. Last I checked the Zuma has a total of four restrictions, two of them in the exhaust alone.

I was more wondering how the R50 engine internals compare to the zuma. I know a stock zuma crank should be kept under 10k rpms. My roughhouse hit 39 mph gps out of the box no mods, down a short hill of course(i'm 250lbs). With a pipe, 4.8 gram rollers, drilled air box, I backed out at 55 mph indicated, of course down hill. I figured I'd save the crank for later. The biggest shortfall of the stock or near stock bike is the torque sheave shifts too early killing the power.

Hmm a 150cc roughhouse. Going for a buddy swap? Can you get enough tire in there? The RH has awesome leg room.

I gotcha... I've heard you can push the stock crank up to 11K with the correct mods, but I'm not sure if that's accurate. I do know there are better BBKs than some, you just need to know what you are looking for. With zero mods on the emissions and drive, I was able to maintain an indicated 45mph without problems, probably close to 39 on the gps. As for a buddy swap... I'm thinking a little more radical... I'm thinking a heavily modded GY6 long case with a BBK. The other idea is to shoehorn a 250cc LC bastage into it somehow. Yeah, it would mean a whole new frame mount to do something like that, but it may be worth it. Something that would be a little more street worthy for sure.

Bringing this back up... I believe I have things narrowed down. The main headgear sits on a 23mm stem. Just so happens the NCY handlebar post will indeed fit. The problem though, all of the indicators would need to be replaced. The upgrade is definitely going to be a little more expensive than if I were to just purchase a Rattler, but the end result should be awesome. So let's break this down.

NCY Handlebar Post
Open end Handlebar Grips
CRG Arrow bar end mirrors
NCY Throttle Control
Koso D64 Speedometer & Indicators

Then, all I need is a good 7/8" handlebar to finish the headset project.

Well it's getting there. I still need to tweak the wiring a little bit and make sure the way it sits is a bit more comfortable... but here ya go. I'm still waiting to receive my optional parts from Koso to hook up the speedo.

Photos are a little dark, but it looks good. Your scoot looks a little more hand-built rather than a like a plastic scooter. I like that speedo. The Rattler LCD is too bright at night and there is no way to dim it down. Nice choice.

Yeah, sorry it's kinda dark. The first of the two is in a cave with a very bright florescent light... but the background is pitch black. I just love the way it turns out with the background like that. Gives it a rough look to it. The other picture is taken with the flash on in my garage... don't really have much light otherwise. I'll take a couple good daytime pictures tomorrow. I still need to clean up the wiring though before I'm happy with it. Also, I might get a flat drag bar later, this one is just too low how it sits.

Oh yeah, can't wait for my mirrors to get in... that's going to be the finishing sauce for the head set.

Here's a couple more shots during the day. The way the handlebars currently fit makes it a bit of a pain to ride (note the angle). Also, the lower bars get in the way of the knees unless I'm riding at the very back of the seat so I'm totally hunched over. With that in mind, I'm going to flip them around and ride them high to see how well that works.

Wiring information for the RH50 2013

Headset
Brown/White stripe - High beam indicator positive
Green/Orange stripe - Oil indicator positive
Pink - Left Signal indicator positive
Brown - Right Signal indicator positive
Dark Green - Lamp positive
Orange - Fuel indicator
White/Black stripe - Fuel indicator
Black - Ground wire (fuel, indicators, lamps)

These are the colors at the headset. There are a couple variances when looking at the main harness. However, the connection information is pretty much the same at the main harness.

Something interesting happened when I got everything buttoned up today. The speedo is gps accurate. So is the odometer. took it out for a good ride today and droppen in some ethonal free gas for a treat. I went close to 60 miles as the odo told me. Turns out it was the exact same number right down to the tenths according to my gps. If only all bike odos and speedos would be as accurate.

I'm with you. I'd like my speedo to tell me how fast I'm going, not how fast someone else wants me to think I'm going.

Scoot came out looking great BTW.

I flipped the bars again because the stance was just horrid on the wrists. I also removed the mickey mouse ears and finally got my bar end mirrors. Cleaned up some of the wiring a bit more. When I get a chance tomorrow, I'll snag a pic or two.

I love the look of the bars facing down. But I'll bet it suck to ride. Looks sweet though. If it were mine i think I'd cut them a bit shorter also. But looks cool as is. Have you posted pics of your seat? And have i seen them?

The bars could be cut shorter, but only by about half an inch. To me, that wouldn't be enough of a change. With the bars down it does suck to ride but it looks awesome the way it stands. There's a few shots of the seat already in the thread. It sits so much nicer.

Nice work fo sho