Modern Buddy

So, just this morning, the Ratjack started to idle hard and still want to accelerate, even when stopped. After I park it, with the scoot turned off, it strongly resists being backed up, there's something going on with the rear wheel. Haven't changed anything recently, but noticed that the little lever arm on left rear side by the tire with the cable coming out and the spring around it (think it's the brake cable) is bowed out, I thought it always used to be straight. Anyhow, suggestions on what may be wrong and how to fix it?

I thought it might be that the throttle was stuck slightly open, but the way it behaves even when shut off leads me to believe it's something else.

You might need to loosen your rear brake cable a little bit.

You may just need to adjust the idle down. A high idle will cause the drive belt to engage. If you adjust it and a few day later it's too slow and won't idle then the carb may need a cleaning.

I'm not around my rattler to double check, but I'm pretty sure the rod shouldn't be bent. Here's a picture, but I'll take a look once I get home Thursday night.

Yeah, should clarify, it's not the lever arm itself, but the cable with the spring around it, I'll try loosening it up.

Is the cable bowed or is it just the spring? Here's what mine looks like.

Wasn't the brake cable, fiddled with the idle adjust and it didn't solve the problem, so I pulled off the seat&bucket too have a look around and there seems to be a nice heavy "clunk, clunk, clunk" from under the cvt cover, so I'm gonna pop the cover off and have a look.

So, popped the cover off, heard a distinct clack clack from inside and thought that maybe there was something wrong with my slider weights. Got everything opened up and they look fine. I think it may be something to do with the clutch, the bell seems like it's always engaged, but I don't know what to do to fix it and I don't currently have an impact wrench so I can't pull the clutch apart.

Stock clutch or something else? If it's a clearance issue then a properly sized spacer (thin washer) on the shaft under the clutch bell will fix the problem.

It's the stock clutch. I was stupid and rode it to work because I also have a problem with my truck's tranny. Got about a block from work and pop! I'm taking it to the shop tomorrow, hopefully it's nothing too bad as I was going to take it in anyway for some upgrades, but now I have to ask the wife to drive me around and both my vehicles will be in the shop.

Misery loves company Laxer... got home tonight and my clutch is staying engaged. Haven't had the chance to open it up yet and see what's up in there. I'm sure it will be fun! And I went back to the stock clutch at the start of the riding season too, at least I have the HIT I can throw back in there for now.

Why did you revert NM?

Why did you revert NM?

Couldn't get the HIT dialed in the way I wanted to. The clutch bell didn't fit over the entire clutch and it would get real grabby. Once engaged it was fine but when I tried top launch it was borderline abusive to the transmission and myself.

Turns out my spring came loose in the clutch, then when I pulled off the variator to give it a look, I didn't tighten the nut well enough and it came loose and chewed up my belt, but no serious damage otherwise.

My clutch assembly was starting to loosen up too. Caught it before it sprang loose, no damage. Just 5min of my life to open it up, tighten it and close 'er back up. Good to go