I can now share a little more experience in engine swapping.
A few things to consider doing-
-First remove exhaust and rear wheel, then remove the rear brake cable.
-Now remove the seat bucket.
-Next remove the side covers(the long skinny body panels) you will also have to remove the passenger foot rests. Plus you will need to remove the other screws that you can see that were behind the side covers to allow you to move the panels by the bolts that hold the engine to the frame. You can loosen the bolts that hold the engine in but don't remove them yet.
-Remove the lower shock bolt.
-Now go through and disconnect everything that connects the engine to the frame.
--Fuel line
--Vacuum hose
--negative cable from the starter relay
--the ground(or starter)cable that connects just above the dipstick
--the autobystarter(at the red clip)
--the stator(the plug and two bullet connectors)
--sparkplug cap and the wire from the clip
--the throttle cable
--air intake hose
I think that is all the connections but I might be missing something
Now put an old tire under the engine and remove the two large bolts(brass/gold colored)
Engine should drop down, unless you left something connected.
To install position the new engine on the tire and get it as far up and forwards as you can.
Now for the hardest step, getting the large bolts in that hold the engine to the frame. For me the best method was to step through the scooter and face backwards(butt will be touching the handlebars) then reach down and lift the engine up and to the front of the scooter. You should have two philips screwdrivers by the scooter so when you get the holes close you can stick a screwdriver in the holes to hold it in place(see pictures below.) Once you get a screwdriver in on both sides you can remove one and try to get the bolt in and finger tight then get the other side. Then you can do a final tightening. If you have help this step is much easier, but it can be done by yourself.
Next install the lower shock bolt and tighten. While you are back there reconnect the rear brake cable since it will be much easier without the rear wheel on.
At this point it is just hooking everything back up again.
I keep track of my time on my most recent swap-
Total time to remove the engine was 37 minutes(starting in complete ready to ride condition)
Total time to install engine 1 hour 30 minutes(ending in complete ready to ride condition)
I was going fast on the removal(maybe a little too fast because I didn't have everything unhooked before unbolting the engine.) For the install I went sort of fast, but I was more focused on working in a good order and getting everything installed and tight. I did a pretty good job, only had two extra screws. But after a quick look around I figured out where they went and then was one screw short.(This time isn't included in the above times because I thought I was done, but it was maybe 5 more minutes.) Also, the "new" engine was complete with a carb, airbox, cvt, and stator. If you have to swap parts that will add time.
Previous engine swaps took me a much long time, so if it's your first time I would plan for 4+ hours.
Hopefully that all made sense. If not let me know and I will try to explain it better.
How I use the screwdrivers-