Modern Buddy

Scooter works lists a Gates PowerLink as it's OEM cvt belt. So, is that different from this belt on Ebay?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Gates-Premium-S ... 24&vxp=mtr

The OEM belt is a PGO belt that comes in PGO packaging. It's a good one too.

I'm using a Gates right now with no problems.

avescoots1134 wrote:The OEM belt is a PGO belt that comes in PGO packaging. It's a good one too.

So, scooterworks' listing just means "OEM-size".
http://www.scooterworks.com/gates-belt- ... WPP9qbFlHQ
or maybe this is the PGO?
http://www.scooterworks.com/drive-belt- ... WPP06bFlHQ

I'll hit up the local Genuine dealer tomorrow.

KrispyKreme wrote:I'm using a Gates right now with no problems.

good to know, Krispy

Have you a preference regarding the Gates Standard Vs Premium belts?

I'm seeing part numbers PL20707 and PL30707. For only $5-$10 more, maybe I should just get their premium belt?

I'm not familiar with the "premium" belt.

from the pictures, the "premium" appears to have a white layer (maybe aramid?).
I'm going to avoid a Kevlar belt, so I'll order up their standard belt (if the shop doesn't have one in stock).

tiii wrote:from the pictures, the "premium" appears to have a white layer (maybe aramid?).
I'm going to avoid a Kevlar belt, so I'll order up their standard belt (if the shop doesn't have one in stock).

I'm new to scooter maintenance. Don't need a belt yet, but want to develop a base of knowledge.

What's bad about Kevlar?

ModernMike wrote:
What's bad about Kevlar?

They're durable, but toward the end, instead of being worn down, they tend to shred in spectacular fashion, which creates a mighty big mess in the variator housing.

Some people swear by them, though I've never had an issue with standard belts, which tend to last a good long time.

The kevlar (or aramid) belts react to heat differently than the surrounding rubber. So where a rubber v belt breaks, the kevlar version comes appart along it's length.
In my instance, the remainder of the belt wrapped around the clutch pulley and caused my rear wheel to LOCK UP at 75bmph (so like 60-65mph).

Neither way is fun, but I'd rather lose power to the drive wheel than have it suddenly seize on me.

By the way: the local dealership stocks the PGO belt (which is a Bando VS Belt made for PGO).

tiii wrote:The kevlar (or aramid) belts react to heat differently than the surrounding rubber. So where a rubber v belt breaks, the kevlar version comes appart along it's length.
In my instance, the remainder of the belt wrapped around the clutch pulley and caused my rear wheel to LOCK UP at 75bmph (so like 60-65mph).

Neither way is fun, but I'd rather lose power to the drive wheel than have it suddenly seize on me.

By the way: the local dealership stocks the PGO belt (which is a Bando VS Belt made for PGO).

You just said a Kevlar belt almost killed you. That's a good sign. Keep doing what you are doing.

You know what? Kevlar is the way to go for you.

KrispyKreme wrote:
You just said a Kevlar belt almost killed you. That's a good sign. Keep doing what you are doing.

You know what? Kevlar is the way to go for you.

I was answering a question... couple posts before, I said I'd be getting an originl equipment belt next. Or are ya saying this PGO / Bando belt is Kevlar, KK?

Kevlar belts are more ideal towards performance motors, were higher heat and torque are present. Having used both (Zuma 2t) in the past I ended up running the stock OEM belts. I too have had one snap (kevlar) and jam up the rear torque driver, causing 2 skid marks. Part of it was my fault for not checking the belts wear/width and writing the "installed on" millage on it with a sharpie-because it was on there far to long millage wise. Kevlar does stay more responsive but it tends to transmit more vibration. I put the Gates PL30707 kevlar belt on my wives triked Buddy because of the extra weight it has to haul form the outriggers. I keep up with all the service on it so I'm not worried about it snapping down the road without warning. She says her butt dyno can sense no sogginess during long, faster rides and her hands dont feel any change in vibrations.

tiii wrote:

KrispyKreme wrote:
You just said a Kevlar belt almost killed you. That's a good sign. Keep doing what you are doing.

You know what? Kevlar is the way to go for you.

I was answering a question... couple posts before, I said I'd be getting an originl equipment belt next. Or are ya saying this PGO / Bando belt is Kevlar, KK?

I was being a dick.

arent we all, KK?

okay now i'm feeling dumber; all this time, i thought the belts for 125-150 buddys were 743-20-30 yet this PGO belt has 743-20-28 on the side of it. Is the difference between 28 and 30 minor enough (also what dimension is that third number)?



Here's another topic where posters call the 28 AND 30 belts OEM.
topic23439.html

The stock Bando belt is a tough belt. I change mine when I start to see a degradation in performance. I'm running the gates premium. You can actually order it from Napa too. Don't worry about the minor size difference the 20-28 and the 20-30 work the same.

KrispyKreme wrote:I'm using a Gates right now with no problems.

sc00ter wrote:... I put the Gates PL30707 kevlar belt on my wives triked Buddy because of the extra weight it has to haul form the outriggers...

lovemysan wrote:The stock Bando belt is a tough belt. I change mine when I start to see a degradation in performance. I'm running the gates premium. You can actually order it from Napa too. Don't worry about the minor size difference the 20-28 and the 20-30 work the same.

Thanks y'all. That's 3 endorsements for the Gates brand... I'll remember to get one to replace the Bando I just installed (when it becomes due for an R&R).



Buttoned up with new belt in place... 55-60bmph up the steep part of the Waldo Grade (so maybe 45-50 actual mph).