for any who want it, I have transcribed the Stella 2T proper dealer prep video.
maybe you can't view the YouTube at work- maybe you want to cut and paste it for some reason- maybe you don't have 17.5 minutes to watch a video-
well whatever the reason, I typed the whole sucker out for my own reasons (see them
here)
and I'm sharing it with you- use it if you like.
it starts out like an outline and then changes to verbatim (or close to it). my apologies. if someone wants to listen to the 1st 30 seconds and transcribe that part out verbatim they can and then post it in a reply for everyone.
Stella 2T proper dealer prep:
1. uncrating Stella
- inspect for damage WITH the delivery driver still present
* damage to the crate? fork holes?
* check the "tip and tell" – is it triggered? is it missing? (sometimes they take it off to hide that they messed up
~ if it is, then note that on the drivers logbook before you sign for the shipment
* once the scooter is delivered, you have 24 hours to report the dmg to the carrier and genuine scooter company. if you miss this window you may not be reimbursed for damage repair.
take off the top of the carton and the shrink wrap
* common places to check for damage are the side of the engine, the rear fender and bumper, the headlight housing, front
fender and legshield
IF the scooter is damage free - TIGHTEN the headset bolt on the right rear of the steering column- be careful to keep all
wiring clear so wires are not cut or damaged underneath the bolt-
next install the front wheel
make sure the shallow side of the rim faces outward and the deep side of the deep faces the hub
bolts and lock washers are in the glovebox
roll the scooter off the crating materials
remove the battery
remove the caps
fill each cell to max (top) line
pull the stopper on the end
replace the caps and hook up tot a charger (deep cell charger takes 20 minutes)
while the battery is charging, fill the oil with quality oil
(the 2 stroke takes a quart of oil)
next fill the gas tank with FRESH gas.-
what gas recommended for the Stella 4T?
mirrors and mirror brackets are also located in the glovebox
match the right and left mirror to the right and left bracket
spin the bracket to the mirror and bolt each mirror to the headset as shown
and tighten
next remove the plastic engine protection cover. (might have to unscrew parts to do this)
locate the "check level screw"
if oil slowly drips out then the gear box oil is full.
replace the engine protection cover, and then install the kick start lever.
apparently the bolt comes on the kick start upside down - take the bolt off- because you have to put it in the other way - "going up" not down.
make sure to feed on the lock washer 1st, THEN the flat washer 2nd then feet the bolt UP through the underside of the lever(kick start)
once through, tighten the nut on the topside.
perhaps the MOST IMPORTANT STEP is to take off the air filter and clean out the jets using pressurized air, this removes any
residual fuel or debris from the engine resulting from testing at the factory
if you skip this step - expect to have customers coming back within the 1st 200 miles complaining of
engine problems
a thorough carb cleaning will be necessary to get them back on the road (and that'll be on the dealer for bad prep)
carb cleaning and adjustment is not covered under warranty so it's best to do this step during prep.
take care to remove any debris fron the main jet and the idle jet as well as the interior of the carburetor
next turn on the fuel valve and check that fuel is flowing to the carburetor and that there are no leaks.
then adjust the mixture screw , starting with the screw all the way in, spin it counter clockwise for exactly 3 rotations
this is a good setting for most conditions.
AT A HIGH ALTITUDE you may need fewer than 3 turns, at sea level you may need slightly more than 3 turns.
then reinstall the air filter and air box cover.
by now the battery should be charged, so, remove the electrical tape from the battery connectors
the positive side can be identified by a rubber boot
strap the battery into it's compartment and hook up the connectors then pull the rubber boot OVER the positive connection.
feed the battery's drain tube through the spare tire assembly dso the lower end hangs down toward the pavement ( I should see
it when I look under the spare tire - OR it's not long enough and it'll cause acid erosion dmg.) slide the upper end over the vent on the right side of the battery
next make sure all wheel bolts are properly tightened on the front and rear wheels and that BOTH tires are inflated to 30 psi
also check for loose bolts and connectors throughout the scooter
check for oil flow by disconnecting the oil tube at the airbox and pulling it down
it may take a minute or 2 for the oil to work its way down through the tube so be patient
if oil properly drips down to the end of the tube- reattach it to the air box.
next pull the choke out and start the scooter using the electric start.
when the engine warms up push the choke in and adjust the idle screw.
(in the middle of the airbox and carburetor)
next install the left and right cowls, start at the back end inserting the pin Into the hole on the left side of the fender,
bring the cowl down tight to the body, and use the levers forward of the gas cap to lock the lever in place
remove any plastic covering from the speedometer and taillight (using a razor blade?!)
finally, with the scooter running – check all switches and lighting, including the kill switch, turn signals, high and low
beam, turn signal indicators, and brake lights and make sure to independently test the front and rear brake levers
you are now ready to test drive.
the final step is to examine the spark plug after the test drive.
the spark plug should be a mocha brown color.
if the spark plug is white the mixture is too lean., if the spark plug is black the mixture is too rich.
make necessary adjustments tot he air fuel mixture and the stella prep is complete!