Well that thing is broken.

The original 2-stroke Genuine scooter and its 4-stroke manual and automatic offspring

Moderator: Modern Buddy Staff

Post Reply
mattaithiew
Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2019 2:55 am
Location: Baton Rouge

Well that thing is broken.

Post by mattaithiew »

Been having a couple little issues with my stella (09 2t) so i decided to clean the carb and give everything a once over. Was putting the carb back in the carb box. Decided to look up the torque spec to ensure I the carb box to the reed block to spec ( might as well do something right). Set the torque wench to the desired spec and started cranking it down... after cranking it down significantly i thought to myself that I don't remember it needing to be cranked down that much...but I hadn't taken the carb box off of a stella in about 8 years...so i dismissed the thought. I cranked down two or three more times and the damn post snapped.

So now i'm trying to figure out what i'm gonna have to do to fix the damn thing. I imagin those posts are screwed into the crank case, and are replacable, but I can't find the part on the diagrams on the scooterworks website. Anyone know what those posts are called, or where i might find them.... or if they are part of the crank case itself. Just trying to figure out how badly i've screwed myself on this one and how much it's gonna cost me.

thanks.
milly
Member
Posts: 75
Joined: Sun Nov 26, 2017 9:31 am
Location: U.K.

Post by milly »

The bolt's you can in the link below. You can then match up a stud locally. Unscrew the good one for size. Good luck getting the broken one out.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Pcs-VESPA- ... SwAAJdB1VA
whereshaldo
Member
Posts: 25
Joined: Sat Aug 17, 2019 11:41 pm
Location: Seattle

Post by whereshaldo »

A good hardware store should have metric studs, or you should be able to order online from a metric parts house. The issue really is whether the stud sheared off clean where it enters the case or if there is a nub sticking up that you can get vise grips attached to.

If there is something to grab, then I would suggest pulling out the reed block, and as much as you can from the engine so you don't melt anything or catch anything on fire? You can get a simple fire blanket at a hardware store and protect the chassis and the fuel lines from the torch. Gently heat up the stud and the area. Don't do too much because you can melt the aluminum if you're not careful. Heat it and spray with some Kroil or other penetrating oil. Do this about 3 times over 24 hours. Once you've done that, then eat it up and then grab it really good with the vice grips. wiggle it back and forth, loosening and tightening just a little - like 1/16 or 1/32 of a turn. If you can get it broken loose then screw it out, and replace adding some red or blue locktite to hold it in.

If you can't get a grip on it, i'd suggest pulling the engine and lug it to a machine shop.

Hal
mattaithiew
Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2019 2:55 am
Location: Baton Rouge

Post by mattaithiew »

There's a good bit of the stud left i can grab onto. Does anyone know what the stud lenght is, or should I pull the other stud to get the correct size?
whereshaldo
Member
Posts: 25
Joined: Sat Aug 17, 2019 11:41 pm
Location: Seattle

Post by whereshaldo »

I would pull it out and then use that and the other stud to figure the length. You might be able to see the thickness of the case and figure out the length of the stud. Studs only come in certain lengths so it should be pretty easy.
mattaithiew
Member
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Oct 14, 2019 2:55 am
Location: Baton Rouge

Post by mattaithiew »

Any idea how to remove those posts? I tried using some vice grip pliers on a portion of the posts that don't have threads and I wasn't able to budge it. Could be that my vice grip pliers are super crappy b/c i bought them from Harbor Freight.
milly
Member
Posts: 75
Joined: Sun Nov 26, 2017 9:31 am
Location: U.K.

Post by milly »

I use a really short snap on pipe wrench for studs grips great
whereshaldo
Member
Posts: 25
Joined: Sat Aug 17, 2019 11:41 pm
Location: Seattle

Post by whereshaldo »

Did you heat it? Assuming they used something like locktite red, plus the interaction between steel and aluminum, you're gonna need heat at minimum if not heat and penetrating oil. Heat, chemicals and patience are key.

Try heating the case vs the stud or vice versa. It's a long game or else find a machine shop. Anything else is hell.

H
Post Reply