EBay Minarelli rebuild kits fit for 87 PGO cases.

87PGOSTAR50GUY · Post by **87PGOSTAR50GUY** » Sun Jan 24, 2016 4:47 pm

Hey anyone here have exoeriance with eBay rebuild kits investing ahead of time.

Not looking for bbk top end just oversized cranks and heavy duty bearings things of that nature.

One time from CA to WA shipping.

sc00ter · Post by **sc00ter** » Sun Jan 24, 2016 5:12 pm

I dont do fleaBay for anything. I used ScooterTuning, Racing Planet, SPmoto and Drow Sports. Unless the fleaBay site states your motor in the list, I would be wary. Also, if you do split the case and put in better main bearings and a better crank you might as well go for a 70cc top end. Come to think of it, a starter cast iron 70cc top end wont beat up the stock crank/main bearings. You will just need to make sure the stock carb can be up jetted enough (pilot/needle/main) to supply the proper fuel amount and get a entry level expansion pipe that matches the cylinder. Oh, and install carbon fiber reeds as cheap insurance. Get your toes in the water, and you wont have to split the case.

87PGOSTAR50GUY · Post by **87PGOSTAR50GUY** » Mon Jan 25, 2016 1:29 am

sc00ter wrote:I dont do fleaBay for anything. I used ScooterTuning, Racing Planet, SPmoto and Drow Sports. Unless the fleaBay site states your motor in the list, I would be wary. Also, if you do split the case and put in better main bearings and a better crank you might as well go for a 70cc top end. Come to think of it, a starter cast iron 70cc top end wont beat up the stock crank/main bearings. You will just need to make sure the stock carb can be up jetted enough (pilot/needle/main) to supply the proper fuel amount and get a entry level expansion pipe that matches the cylinder. Oh, and install carbon fiber reeds as cheap insurance. Get your toes in the water, and you wont have to split the case.

Yep yep, well how's those naraku parts, I was interested in those at one time, flea bay got me a decent cross hatched cyl with a shitty spark plug thread.

Its good for newbie parts but shitty for tuning.

sc00ter · Post by **sc00ter** » Mon Jan 25, 2016 6:48 am

Personally never used Naraku parts. Also no Airsal parts. Stick with Technigas R or RS pipes for good price/performance. LeoVince ZX pipes are good value also. Malossi or Stage 6 cast iron cylinder kits for best bang for your buck. Malossi variators. Stage 6 clutches. Delorto carbs. Some Motoforce parts will work in a budjet pinch. This is just the stuff I have had good luck with in the past. Polini is overpriced but not bad quality at all. The key to making it all work is taking your time with jetting, roller set up, torque spring selection, clutch spring engagement and ironing out all the stupid surprises you WILL run into-like making a 2 pull throttle assembly work safely with a 1 pull carb (Zuma's mostly) and doing a leak down test and seeing the needle drop. My builds were always bullet proof and pretty quick but I was getting too lazy to rejet for the seasons (soft seized) and keep up with stuff that will vibrate loose (exhaust bolts and stuff). My Zuma was year round use-100 degree F in summer to 15 degree F in winter/20 mile commute each way.

87PGOSTAR50GUY · Post by **87PGOSTAR50GUY** » Mon Jan 25, 2016 7:06 am

sc00ter wrote:Personally never used Naraku parts. Also no Airsal parts. Stick with Technigas R or RS pipes for good price/performance. LeoVince ZX pipes are good value also. Malossi or Stage 6 cast iron cylinder kits for best bang for your buck. Malossi variators. Stage 6 clutches. Delorto carbs. Some Motoforce parts will work in a budjet pinch. This is just the stuff I have had good luck with in the past. Polini is overpriced but not bad quality at all. The key to making it all work is taking your time with jetting, roller set up, torque spring selection, clutch spring engagement and ironing out all the stupid surprises you WILL run into-like making a 2 pull throttle assembly work safely with a 1 pull carb (Zuma's mostly) and doing a leak down test and seeing the needle drop. My builds were always bullet proof and pretty quick but I was getting too lazy to rejet for the seasons (soft seized) and keep up with stuff that will vibrate loose (exhaust bolts and stuff). My Zuma was year round use-100 degree F in summer to 15 degree F in winter/20 mile commute each way.

My squish issue got me tilted, squish and time are related my motor would be a torque build if I'm correct bore and gained stroke length.

As presented here:

www.strokerengine.com/StrokedEngines.html

I know it will run but I want to make sure its to a tee stroke defeats bore torque and bore vs stroke beats by power.

Power is the ability to carry to a higher speed at a slower rate if I am correct, torque is the ability to created speed off the line.

I am not tripping but I torques cool to me stop light burner.

"PLEASE CORRECT ME IF WRONG'

sc00ter · Post by **sc00ter** » Mon Jan 25, 2016 3:58 pm

I have never had to mess with the timing. 1: The cylinder kits that require the timing to be altered are VERY pricey. 2:I dont race and have no urge to do the upkeep on a race build. 3: A good street kit is plenty fast AND cheaper to replace if you catch a ring or get a seize. Keep in mind if you do a stroker crank the spacers required are just more possibilities for air leaks, again-Im lazy. Dont know off the top of my head on squish but I set mine to run off of 87 octane pump gas. Nothing super tight, just "cheap gas" friendly. No two motors are the same, even with a exact same build, so all those web sites that show you how to build a beast motor are not going to replace your parts when something goes boom-and something WILL go boom. Are there any scooter clubs in your area that you can go check out their rides? I guess Im lucky, as a good friend is a member of one and I go riding with them every now and then on the Buddy. Mostly Ruckus scooters with different motors crammed in them. Only 2 2t guys at the moment, but both scoots haul booty!

87PGOSTAR50GUY · Post by **87PGOSTAR50GUY** » Mon Jan 25, 2016 4:47 pm

sc00ter wrote:I have never had to mess with the timing. 1: The cylinder kits that require the timing to be altered are VERY pricey. 2:I dont race and have no urge to do the upkeep on a race build. 3: A good street kit is plenty fast AND cheaper to replace if you catch a ring or get a seize. Keep in mind if you do a stroker crank the spacers required are just more possibilities for air leaks, again-Im lazy. Dont know off the top of my head on squish but I set mine to run off of 87 octane pump gas. Nothing super tight, just "cheap gas" friendly. No two motors are the same, even with a exact same build, so all those web sites that show you how to build a beast motor are not going to replace your parts when something goes boom-and something WILL go boom. Are there any scooter clubs in your area that you can go check out their rides? I guess Im lucky, as a good friend is a member of one and I go riding with them every now and then on the Buddy. Mostly Ruckus scooters with different motors crammed in them. Only 2 2t guys at the moment, but both scoots haul booty!

So its not a concern going from 7.21 compression ratio down to 6.8.1 is not a concern? Not trying to do a stroker just considering the difference from 41mm x 37.4 to 40mm x 39.2..

Downgrade below standard less to fire but more to powerup. If powered up I need it to do maximum top end speed at high rpm thus needing probably reeds and intake upgrade.