who believes in stock performance

87PGOSTAR50GUY · Post by **87PGOSTAR50GUY** » Mon Mar 21, 2016 1:39 am

who believes in stock performance with performance parts upgrades such as stock aftermarket exhaust carburetor with piston upgrade?

when it comes to CVT gearing what is the main information that should be taken down my last post I felt about malossi and polini upgrades only.

can upgrading the CVT really help or is it no chance in hell that it really would work o only want to full grade drive system

Running a hair rich I care not so much about

skipper20 · Post by **skipper20** » Mon Mar 21, 2016 3:29 pm

87PGOSTAR50GUY wrote:who believes in stock performance with performance parts upgrades such as stock aftermarket exhaust carburetor with piston upgrade?

when it comes to CVT gearing what is the main information that should be taken down my last post I felt about malossi and polini upgrades only.

can upgrading the CVT really help or is it no chance in hell that it really would work o only want to full grade drive system

Running a hair rich I care not so much about

I'm OK with stock performance. I've always felt that if you want bigger and faster then buy bigger and faster.

Bill in Seattle but wintering in Tucson

ucandoit · Post by **ucandoit** » Mon Mar 21, 2016 4:11 pm

For myself, I agree with Skipper. If I wanted bigger, faster, etc., I would buy that from the start. But I completely understand, and admire, even, those who want to modify what they have. Those are cool skills and I'm sure it's satisfying. There is a passion there.

87PGOSTAR50GUY · Post by **87PGOSTAR50GUY** » Mon Mar 21, 2016 4:33 pm

skipper20 wrote:
87PGOSTAR50GUY wrote:who believes in stock performance with performance parts upgrades such as stock aftermarket exhaust carburetor with piston upgrade?

when it comes to CVT gearing what is the main information that should be taken down my last post I felt about malossi and polini upgrades only.

can upgrading the CVT really help or is it no chance in hell that it really would work o only want to full grade drive system

Running a hair rich I care not so much about
I'm OK with stock performance. I've always felt that if you want bigger and faster then buy bigger and faster.

Bill in Seattle but wintering in Tucson

I dont seem to really want faster because a cdi no rev will give me that by its self what I really want is just a vintage edge by adding clutch, new stock performance muffler, with race type clutches and pullies.

I think my splooge issue relies in else where other then the carb, it may be the piolet jet (slightly too big) partial engaged clutch but 18 year of usage of 28 years of age on reeds sounds like a bigger issue better reeds, yield better preformance, and the current reeds are (unknown). A slight tap or chipping sounds sounds like like my reeds are cracking or failing. Last time torn down (top end) couldnt find anything in the case. But once and a blue moon iding I here something that sounds like pieces falling apart, couldn't find a bad bearing or nothing.

Here are some choices I have in mind:

Racing exhaust Tecnigas Silent pro:

http://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/produ ... _te0307300

My chosen upgrade for muffler 80s mufflers by pgo look like honda spree mufflers but slightly bigger vs 90s-2k technigas style which matches updated GENUINE SCOOTER CURRENT STOCK T-Rex/ Big Max/ PGO EHAUST.

seems exhaust ranges up to 150cc which mean technically its still performance right? 150cc puts out more rpm then a 50cc (performance at the least.)

Full reed valve replacement through polini as mallosi won't sell to USA, I figure thicker grade reed valves will aid going up hill and being able to convert the air to torque.

Polini reed block Full valve:

http://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/produ ... +_p2130050 [/b]

Will be orders outside sip scooter shop if they don't have pgo star (i am NOT giving business to any place that does not have PGO STAR 50 AND II listing.)

CVT I refuse to use polini IT IS MANDITORY on a mallosi drive train if I can find someone who ships. I am about to drop $150.00 after tabs and plates.

87PGOSTAR50GUY · Post by **87PGOSTAR50GUY** » Mon Mar 21, 2016 6:34 pm

ucandoit wrote:For myself, I agree with Skipper. If I wanted bigger, faster, etc., I would buy that from the start. But I completely understand, and admire, even, those who want to modify what they have. Those are cool skills and I'm sure it's satisfying. There is a passion there.

Well I look at it this way even in the event I get hit by a wreckless driver, I still have to be compensated by insurance companies up to 500 USD by the body being really old with 1.3% panel parts left I could rebuid a solid body cargo scooter by swaping to aero 125 rear panels. The length = a trunk if I plastic weld a base under the back side. Just keep letting them bad drivers pay her way to upgrade while I am upgrading. All I know rigjt now either my piolets too big or my reeds are bad all reeds have screws holding theetals right? Even if there was a pinhole in the cage reworking them works with steel stik.

wheelbender6 · Post by **wheelbender6** » Mon Mar 21, 2016 8:19 pm

Stock works for me, as I have a long commute. I do have a strong desire to hot rod a 50cc two stroke scoot like a Roughouse.

87PGOSTAR50GUY · Post by **87PGOSTAR50GUY** » Mon Mar 21, 2016 8:56 pm

wheelbender6 wrote:Stock works for me, as I have a long commute. I do have a strong desire to hot rod a 50cc two stroke scoot like a Roughouse.

That is what I'm saying in direction of advancement, my scooter possibly carries 2 passengers with only one she rides well with my tool bag on her and me. Pulls OK but I don't mess with them hills to much unless I get a head start and slow drop to 20-35mph.

I DO STILL WANT EXHAUST AND REEDS(THATS ONE PART REQURED TOGETHER)

I also need to update drive train polini preferred secondary due to USA access problems but, malossi is what I want.

Comes with some directions at minimum, but this ant a rag ball scoot not to be kicked and beat on.

I feel nothing more then stock is needed without bbk, the tuning asap is the key the next few weeks I will be riding her rich I need a test smell before I rejet I don't smoke a windstorm but I do splooge enough at low idle when I hit the gas the splooge vanishes.

Piolet not changed on a cone filter, I may have to. Play around some more with the tune I still think I have a fuel screw to the left toward the intake and airscrew to the right toward the air filter correct? No bogging no issues just a fouled plug but no deposits.

At .40 NGK factory specs less chance of stall under 100-200 miles wit clutch partially engaged.

At a .24-28 gap wheel clutch is disengaged but will foul out quicker,

Long story short I want top performance with least mods as possible no attention from cops silent speeder.

Show machine not for racing but can tear up a dang hill when I have to.

(Questions do need answers above)

I think I need to personally go back up to the 2nd clip position from the top on my needle and adjust that air screw again.

Tazio · Post by **Tazio** » Mon Mar 21, 2016 9:35 pm

My stock 2007 Buddy performance is just fine. If I need something bigger and faster I ride the Vespa. If I need something much bigger and slower I ride the Ural.

sc00ter · Post by **sc00ter** » Tue Mar 22, 2016 3:00 am

I had a Hyosung Sense 50 2 stroke and all I did to it was a Malossi Multivar 2000 variator, a Tecnigas R exhaust and changed out the clutch and torque spring and it would run a solid 45mph with two people on it, and it flew for a 50cc with one person on it. I never did the reeds because I was to lazy to take the reed cage off (it was HARD to work on-very cramped). I still have the carbon fiber reed sheet, you cut them yourself to fit. I sold the scoot to a friend and he rode it for 2 or 3 years of trouble free use, but now I think a reed either spit or chipped and killed the cylinder. He never looked into it. His loss. Anyways, that combo worked great. Just do the reeds also, they are cheap insurance. Oh, almost forgot. I upjetted the main 2 sizes higher and dropped the clip one notch on the needle.

87PGOSTAR50GUY · Post by **87PGOSTAR50GUY** » Sun Apr 03, 2016 7:55 pm

Tazio wrote:My stock 2007 Buddy performance is just fine. If I need something bigger and faster I ride the Vespa. If I need something much bigger and slower I ride the Ural.

Ehh still dont feel like i am driving 30 mph, feels like 50mph reed valves may need to be flipped but i am having problems determining should i use max thickness 35 or using a 30.

87PGOSTAR50GUY · Post by **87PGOSTAR50GUY** » Sun Apr 03, 2016 8:02 pm

sc00ter wrote:I had a Hyosung Sense 50 2 stroke and all I did to it was a Malossi Multivar 2000 variator, a Tecnigas R exhaust and changed out the clutch and torque spring and it would run a solid 45mph with two people on it, and it flew for a 50cc with one person on it. I never did the reeds because I was to lazy to take the reed cage off (it was HARD to work on-very cramped). I still have the carbon fiber reed sheet, you cut them yourself to fit. I sold the scoot to a friend and he rode it for 2 or 3 years of trouble free use, but now I think a reed either spit or chipped and killed the cylinder. He never looked into it. His loss. Anyways, that combo worked great. Just do the reeds also, they are cheap insurance. Oh, almost forgot. I upjetted the main 2 sizes higher and dropped the clip one notch on the needle.

Im concerned about thickness my reeds are feeling like a (F/o/r/d)

I want very thick reeds but not so thick that i have to start on a race type idle.

Tick is getting on my nerves loading the rpm at idle it doesnt tick thud showing my reeds are worned the hell out.

sc00ter · Post by **sc00ter** » Sun Apr 03, 2016 9:11 pm

If I can find the reed sheet I will let ya know what thickness they are. Know that when reeds are called thickness, they are not thicker-just stiffer. I also have a Carbon Tech reed booklet that the seller sent me because he thought I was a shop when I ordered 5 sets from him, again-been awhile and I cannot recall the stiffness that we used on the Stage 1 Zuma motors. The reeds did help with the low end, thats all I remember. They make a neat flutter sound if you run a cone filter-I personally do not run cones as it makes the proper jetting extra important. Soft seizes are the worst! Carbon Tech may still be around, do a search. They go into detail, thats why we used them in the past. Let me go look. I have a file cabinet in the garage and I think the booklet is in it. get back to ya.

sc00ter · Post by **sc00ter** » Mon Apr 04, 2016 2:38 pm

.30 thickness/stiffness is what the "cut to fit" sheet is. Wow, I feel like a drug dealer! Also, I no longer have the Carbon Tech booklet. When I got out of 2 strokes I think I tossed or passed on some of the manuals. I do have a weak spot for the Adly RT50, and we have a good dealer near by. No panels to pull when you have to service it, and I know the engine layout already. Anyways, .30 is a good choice, as those reeds were intended for the Hyosung SD50 we had. Oh, and check for leaks around the cage after changing the reeds, the cage base LOVES to leak because of the engine case seam. We use a dab of Dirko of other sealent with a NEW gasket every time we mess with the cage. A leak at the cage will seize the motor super quick.

Dooglas · Post by **Dooglas** » Mon Apr 04, 2016 4:07 pm

87PGOSTAR50GUY wrote:Well I look at it this way even in the event I get hit by a wreckless driver, I still have to be compensated by insurance companies ........

You certainly gave me a good chuckle there. Actually, I don't think you will ever be hit by a "wreckless" driver.

k1dude · Post by **k1dude** » Mon Apr 04, 2016 7:07 pm

I just upgrade my speedometer to one that's 30% optimistic. It makes me think I'm going faster.

Seriously, if you want faster, buy bigger and faster.

Performance mods make the most sense when you're up against laws or regs that prohibit larger displacements, whether it's the code or racing governing bodies.

The money and effort required to eek out that extra 10% to 20% usually isn't worth it otherwise. If you want faster, buy faster from the factory.

If you're just a hobbyist and want to see what you can get out of a specific platform, that's another matter entirely. It's the American way. Whatever it is, we can make it go faster!

sc00ter · Post by **sc00ter** » Tue Apr 05, 2016 3:14 am

What is that saying, Speed is a matter of money, how fast do you want to go? I have dumped silly money into 2t tuning, and as much as I enjoyed it, I like my Buddy 125. No worries about lean seizes or something breaking from being pushed to the limit. I may get back into it again one day....

lovemysan · Post by **lovemysan** » Tue Apr 05, 2016 2:01 pm

k1dude wrote:I just upgrade my speedometer to one that's 30% optimistic. It makes me think I'm going faster.

Seriously, if you want faster, buy bigger and faster.

Performance mods make the most sense when you're up against laws or regs that prohibit larger displacements, whether it's the code or racing governing bodies.

The money and effort required to eek out that extra 10% to 20% usually isn't worth it otherwise. If you want faster, buy faster from the factory.

If you're just a hobbyist and want to see what you can get out of a specific platform, that's another matter entirely. It's the American way. Whatever it is, we can make it go faster!

In Missouri to avoid titling and licensing the law states not more than 49cc, 2 speeds or less automatically shifted, less than three horsepower, must not exceed 30mph. If you go 31 mph your legally required to tag, insure, and get an m endorsement.

Old Crow · Post by **Old Crow** » Fri Apr 22, 2016 4:04 am

Staying stock. It is trustworthy for my long commute (40mile each way) -- unlike my friends hyper-tuned high maintenance scoot that may or probably will not make it back home.

Modern Buddy

who believes in stock performance

who believes in stock performance

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Re: who believes in stock performance