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Eeeeeeelectrical Issue, UGH.

 
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ericalm
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STELLA FOUR STROKE FURY! + Vespa LX 150/190 + '87 Honda Helix CN250

PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 1:00 am    Post subject: Eeeeeeelectrical Issue, UGH. Reply with quote

I was blowing fuses like crazy. Replaced the stock fuse with a 10A blade fuse. Did fine for a couple starts, then blew. Right handlebar switch was bad. Replaced it and the wiring. Works great. Fuse: blown. Loose ground on a signal rectified. Blown fuse.

So I decided to ignore it for a while and kickstart.

But the days are shorter and I want more headlight and I should probably fix that dang thing.

Charged the battery with the tender. Soon as I turned the ignition on, blew a fuse. Heh heh heh.

Replaced it, then was able to use electric start once before it blew.

So, before I start going through the annoying and arduous process of working my way around the wiring harness with my multimeter, I may try to test the regulator. BUUUUUUUT if anyone else has any ideas, I'm open. Because hunting for these things, if you couldn't tell, is not my favorite thing to do.

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az_slynch
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'18 Spade, '16 K-Pipe, '13 Stella 4T, '12 Yager GT200i, '81 Vespa P200e and Far Too Many Others

PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 2:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check the harness where it passes between the chassis and the headset. The harness can get chafed there if not routed properly and you might have an intermittent short. A shorted power lead will blow a fuse post-haste.
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avescoots1134
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PostPosted: Mon Oct 26, 2015 3:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The problem area is usually where the headset meets the frame and your issue will certainly be a power wire.

If you have the time and space to work, I'd go for a full tune up to make the wiring chase seem worth it. Since you will have to pull the headset, install some new cables. Heck, go ahead and pull the tank and replace the Indian fuel line with some good stuff.

Everyone loathes wiring issues but when you get a bit of maintenance done at the same time you're yanking the harness out it sure feels easier.
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ericalm
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 27, 2015 4:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, guys!

az_slynch wrote:
Check the harness where it passes between the chassis and the headset. The harness can get chafed there if not routed properly and you might have an intermittent short. A shorted power lead will blow a fuse post-haste.

That's actually highly possible. The wires are pretty tight (of course) but I've done my share of fiddling around in there and cramming various other things through that opening while replacing some other wiring, etc.

avescoots1134 wrote:
The problem area is usually where the headset meets the frame and your issue will certainly be a power wire.

If you have the time and space to work, I'd go for a full tune up to make the wiring chase seem worth it. Since you will have to pull the headset, install some new cables. Heck, go ahead and pull the tank and replace the Indian fuel line with some good stuff.

Everyone loathes wiring issues but when you get a bit of maintenance done at the same time you're yanking the harness out it sure feels easier.

I need to pull the headset and do a few other things anyways (loose speedo cable). Hopefully that's the spot!

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50CC Cape Cod
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Joined: 26 Jan 2012
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Honda CL350 (sold) Kymco 50CC Cobra, Kymco 50 People (sold), Honda 50 Urban Express

PostPosted: Sun Nov 08, 2015 11:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Eric,
If not fixed as of yet may try and check out the electric contacts may have pulled apart and grounding out the positive wire or if the wires are tight
the insulation worn through grounding out the wires as well.
I saw your review on the Stella from the past any updated impressions?
I am looking at a 2011 with only 60 miles with sidecar hardly used.
Anything to be aware of and any idea of price range?
Thanks
Lenny
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ericalm
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 8:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

50CC Cape Cod wrote:
Hi Eric,
I saw your review on the Stella from the past any updated impressions?
I am looking at a 2011 with only 60 miles with sidecar hardly used.
Anything to be aware of and any idea of price range?

My impressions are largely the same! The historical issues with the Stella shifters have generally been in the electrics. But I've also been a bit careless with some of the work I've done on this one, which included some additional wiring and some incautious drilling… Heh. This particular issue could be wear or it could be me. I haven't had a chance to dive in and look.

My only other complaint is the stock exhaust. Too brittle. I replaced mine with the Tasso after a couple warranty replacements. Both failures occurred after some particularly hard riding — one when I may have escaped it while cornering and the other during a 150-mile trek.

It runs so much differently with a sidecar, though, that I may not be the best to judge it for that use. I have some friends who run sidecars with 4Ts and love them. Some even put some fairly high miles on theirs.

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avescoots1134
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 09, 2015 11:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This reminds me of why I traded away my Stella. A couple weeks ago I picked up a P200, popped the horn cover off for a coat of paint ... . .

There are two wires underneath, for the horn. Ah, simplicity.

Also the headset cover drops right on with no fighting. Very Happy
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50CC Cape Cod
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 12:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric,
I have found that making the electrical connections using good connectors,
a crimping tool (picked up at Harbor Freight) and a little die-electric grease
followed with either shrink wrap or something else to insulate the connection has been beneficial. Also allows to take out the tightness in the
wiring so does not disconnect and short out or have a ground problem.

On the riders with the Stellas with sidecars have they been in use for a few
years and any idea of the miles they have clocked?
I am only looking to keep stock and if can go 40-45 mph without any mechanical out of the ordinary issues would be fine.
Lenny
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avescoots1134
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PostPosted: Tue Nov 10, 2015 2:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

50CC Cape Cod wrote:
Eric,
I have found that making the electrical connections using good connectors,
a crimping tool (picked up at Harbor Freight) and a little die-electric grease
followed with either shrink wrap or something else to insulate the connection has been beneficial. Also allows to take out the tightness in the
wiring so does not disconnect and short out or have a ground problem.

On the riders with the Stellas with sidecars have they been in use for a few
years and any idea of the miles they have clocked?
I am only looking to keep stock and if can go 40-45 mph without any mechanical out of the ordinary issues would be fine.
Lenny


If you want reliability, attaching a sidecar to a Stella is definitely not the way to go.
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misplacedyank
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Location: Surprise, AZ
Buddy 125, Stella 4T/Sidecar

PostPosted: Sun Nov 22, 2015 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I bought a 2012 with 34 miles on it in April. I put a sidecar on it and it now has 2100 trouble free miles in 7 months.
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ericalm
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PostPosted: Mon Nov 30, 2015 11:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

4-Step Electrical Repairs
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az_slynch
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'18 Spade, '16 K-Pipe, '13 Stella 4T, '12 Yager GT200i, '81 Vespa P200e and Far Too Many Others

PostPosted: Sun Dec 06, 2015 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't care who you are, that's funny right there!

Laughing

So, is your Stella merely stunned, or is it a *late* scooter?

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EvilNerdLord
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Joined: 27 May 2013
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Location: Marysville, CA
2012 Genuine Stella

PostPosted: Tue Dec 29, 2015 6:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

az_slynch wrote:
Check the harness where it passes between the chassis and the headset. The harness can get chafed there if not routed properly and you might have an intermittent short. A shorted power lead will blow a fuse post-haste.


I had that happen with my horn wire going from the switch down through the head...it actually got pinched so bad I had to remove the bad section and re-route around the pinch point in the steering column (run it down along side the other wires and made sure there was plenty of free play not to get bound during full turn motion)....no problems since.

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