Been having a couple little issues with my stella (09 2t) so i decided to clean the carb and give everything a once over. Was putting the carb back in the carb box. Decided to look up the torque spec to ensure I the carb box to the reed block to spec ( might as well do something right). Set the torque wench to the desired spec and started cranking it down... after cranking it down significantly i thought to myself that I don't remember it needing to be cranked down that much...but I hadn't taken the carb box off of a stella in about 8 years...so i dismissed the thought. I cranked down two or three more times and the damn post snapped.
So now i'm trying to figure out what i'm gonna have to do to fix the damn thing. I imagin those posts are screwed into the crank case, and are replacable, but I can't find the part on the diagrams on the scooterworks website. Anyone know what those posts are called, or where i might find them.... or if they are part of the crank case itself. Just trying to figure out how badly i've screwed myself on this one and how much it's gonna cost me.
thanks.
Well that thing is broken.
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The bolt's you can in the link below. You can then match up a stud locally. Unscrew the good one for size. Good luck getting the broken one out.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Pcs-VESPA- ... SwAAJdB1VA
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Pcs-VESPA- ... SwAAJdB1VA
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A good hardware store should have metric studs, or you should be able to order online from a metric parts house. The issue really is whether the stud sheared off clean where it enters the case or if there is a nub sticking up that you can get vise grips attached to.
If there is something to grab, then I would suggest pulling out the reed block, and as much as you can from the engine so you don't melt anything or catch anything on fire? You can get a simple fire blanket at a hardware store and protect the chassis and the fuel lines from the torch. Gently heat up the stud and the area. Don't do too much because you can melt the aluminum if you're not careful. Heat it and spray with some Kroil or other penetrating oil. Do this about 3 times over 24 hours. Once you've done that, then eat it up and then grab it really good with the vice grips. wiggle it back and forth, loosening and tightening just a little - like 1/16 or 1/32 of a turn. If you can get it broken loose then screw it out, and replace adding some red or blue locktite to hold it in.
If you can't get a grip on it, i'd suggest pulling the engine and lug it to a machine shop.
Hal
If there is something to grab, then I would suggest pulling out the reed block, and as much as you can from the engine so you don't melt anything or catch anything on fire? You can get a simple fire blanket at a hardware store and protect the chassis and the fuel lines from the torch. Gently heat up the stud and the area. Don't do too much because you can melt the aluminum if you're not careful. Heat it and spray with some Kroil or other penetrating oil. Do this about 3 times over 24 hours. Once you've done that, then eat it up and then grab it really good with the vice grips. wiggle it back and forth, loosening and tightening just a little - like 1/16 or 1/32 of a turn. If you can get it broken loose then screw it out, and replace adding some red or blue locktite to hold it in.
If you can't get a grip on it, i'd suggest pulling the engine and lug it to a machine shop.
Hal
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Did you heat it? Assuming they used something like locktite red, plus the interaction between steel and aluminum, you're gonna need heat at minimum if not heat and penetrating oil. Heat, chemicals and patience are key.
Try heating the case vs the stud or vice versa. It's a long game or else find a machine shop. Anything else is hell.
H
Try heating the case vs the stud or vice versa. It's a long game or else find a machine shop. Anything else is hell.
H