2006 Blur Falls of at 40mph

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Darrian
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2006 Blur Falls of at 40mph

Post by Darrian »

Hey everyone. Been searching through the forum a lot. It has been very helpful! I picked up a 2006 Blur 150 last fall that hat sat for about 3 years. It is in great condition with 3200 miles on it.
This spring I have changed fluids, fuel filter, spark plug and cleaned the card very well. I am not new to carbs or things with 2 wheels but I am new to single cylinder and very small carb parts.

The problem I am having is that once I reach 40 mph it's like it is running out of fuel. I can pull over and stop for about 15 seconds and the float bowl will refill and I can go another 200 yards before it happens again. If I stay 35mph and lower it is fine and can ride it all day like that. I'm surprised how zippy it is!

Only reason I would like to go 45ish is the road I prefer to commute on to work is a 35 zone and if your'e going anything under 40 you will be run over.

Thanks in advance for the help!
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babblefish
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Post by babblefish »

I assume you've set the float level correctly?
If so, then I'd say you may not have cleaned the carb well enough and there's a passage that feeds the float bowl gummed up.

I would also make sure that the rubber diaphragm for the slide is sealed well when the black plastic cover is screwed down. It helps a lot to put a little bit of rubber safe lubricant on the sealing lip. If the diaphragm doesn't have a good seal, it will limit your top speed because the slide won't be able to go all the way up. Basically you'll never get full throttle.
Last edited by babblefish on Fri May 15, 2020 7:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PNWbuddy
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Post by PNWbuddy »

an easy thing to check is if your gas tank is venting properly. After running the bike and this happens take the gas cap off to see if there is a vacuum. Or maybe ride a little with the cap off and see if it makes a difference.
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tenders
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Post by tenders »

If you can NEVER get above 40, it sounds like a leak, crease, or fold in the rubber diaphragm as 'fish mentions. This causes an air leak that makes the engine stumble above a certain speed. This is psychologically very damaging because you feel like a repair hero as the engine zooms beautifully up to that speed...and then you feel like a dolt. (Been there, done that.)

However, that's not the same as "running out of fuel" - what that sounds like, is, the engine sputters very briefly and dies! The causes of that could be a second wave of gunk clogging the carb, which happens often, or it could be a sticking float valve preventing fuel from entering the carb bowl faster than it's used in the engine, or it could be a mis-set or bent float level adjustment preventing the valve from letting fuel into the bowl.

So, is your engine limited at the mid- to top end, or is it dying?
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JettaKnight
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Re: 2006 Blur Falls of at 40mph

Post by JettaKnight »

Darrian wrote:The problem I am having is that once I reach 40 mph it's like it is running out of fuel. I can pull over and stop for about 15 seconds and the float bowl will refill and I can go another 200 yards before it happens again. If I stay 35mph and lower it is fine and can ride it all day like that. I'm surprised how zippy it is!
OK, let's check, are you sure it's the fuel? How did you come to that conclusion? Did you actually open up the carb when this happens?

I ask because there's a number of of problems that can seem to have the same effect.
Darrian
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Post by Darrian »

I have had the carb off twice because I did realize I forgot to slide the float needle into the float slot. I will take it out and inspect it here in a few minutes. I'll also make sure nothing else has gotten to the carb since the clean.
Darrian
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Post by Darrian »

I will go out right now and check that diaphragm and make sure its not clogged again. During the clean I just did the idle jet was clogged and a bit of varnish in the float needle seat. Got a new float needle and cleaned up all of the varnish/gunk.
Darrian
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Post by Darrian »

Alright went out. All of the jets are clean. Fuel inlet passage clean. The diaphragm is seated correctly. It is a bit wrinkled. Tried riding it with the cap off after reassembly and does the same thing.
More info: it doesn't stall out when this is happening. But has a similar feel to when I have ran out of gas before switching to reserve on one of my bikes.
scootERIK
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Post by scootERIK »

Darrian wrote: The diaphragm is seated correctly. It is a bit wrinkled.
You should also inspect the diaphragm for holes. All it takes is a tiny hole to kill your top speed. The wrinkles are normal, but they can hide a small hole. Also, make sure you check where the rubber goes into the plastic part.

I know on the Buddy 125 when the diaphragm is the problem the spark plug will be black(at least it was on mine.)
Last edited by scootERIK on Sat May 16, 2020 9:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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babblefish
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Post by babblefish »

You should put some lubricant on the sealing lip of the diaphragm before assembly. When dry, even if it looks like it's seated correctly, there can be a vacuum leak. All it takes is a tiny, tiny leak and the slide won't work correctly. I went through this a couple of years ago and it drove me crazy until I figured it out.
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Darrian
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Post by Darrian »

I'll get out to the garage in a bit here. Will look for pin holes and such. Assuming there arnt any I'll slap some grease in the groove it seats in. Pull the plug and see what it has to tell me.
Darrian
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Post by Darrian »

I found 3 things. The diaphragm does not have any holes or tears in it. Put some grease around the seat to make sure there are no vacuum leaks. 2, The spark plug is damaged somehow and very fouled. Black with oil and smells like gas. See the pic for the damage. Im guessing the spark was jumping. How it got damaged I have no idea. I dont remember dropping it after checking the gap. 3, the oil was just a bit high on the dipstick. Im assuming its like a motorcycle and you check it un-threaded. Either was it was high.
Darrian
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Post by Darrian »

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tenders
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Post by tenders »

Hard to tell as the photo is blurry but if it’s mangled it’s almost certainly come into contact with the piston. Which is bad. Replace it and make positively you’ve got the correct plug in there. If I had to bet I’d say that plug is incorrect and is too long inside the cylinder.
Darrian
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Post by Darrian »

Thats what I was thinking. Either piston or one of the valves. Local dealer who I hate said a cr7e is what it takes and wanted $8 for it. Got it for 1.25 at AZ. Looked it the service manual and its supposed to take a C7HSA. Its a shorter reach plug..... will pick one up tomorrow and see how it runs. Dont really feel like pulling the head to inspect but if all else fails its a lot less work than doing it on a car.
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tenders
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Post by tenders »

If that was a Genuine dealer and they told you that in writing I’d take that up with Genuine directly. If not it’s a he said/she said situation...I would suggest creating a scooter-specific document (I use the “notes� field in an entry in Contacts on my phone) for ALL the specs, sourced directly from the manual or similar, and all the maintenance, with mileage and date. I do this for all my vehicles and track stuff from windshield wiper sizes and last replacement, with minimal effort.

From this list, I know my Vespa 150 uses the plug the dealer told you to use: NGK CR7EB, which happens to be compatible with Champion RG 6 YC, and Denso Iridium IU27 5363, gap 0.024�. That may be a common scooter plug...but it isn’t your scooter plug. As you figured out, it’s 1/4� too long (E vs H).
https://www.sparkplugs.com/Data/uploads ... hart_1.jpg
Darrian
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Post by Darrian »

They sell buddys but are mainly a dirtbike and cruiser store. They wouldn't order me a cbr 600rr a few years back. The only reason I go there anymore is for oil filters if I forgot to order one online or cant get one elsewhere. The wife actually switched to suzuki for her summer daily because we have had such bad experiences. The local suzuki dealer only does suzuki for machines with 2 wheels. It's not worth the trouble of filing stuff. It was not in writing. It was over a call.
Darrian
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SOLVED

Post by Darrian »

Popped a proper spark plug in there C7HSA and it runs great now. Borrowed a camera scope and it doesn't appear that the top of the piston is mangled or cracked. I had this scooter running before I cleaned the carb, fluids and this spark plug and it would go 45ish. Now I can get 60 on flat and hit 70 down a hill lol. Thanks for the help everyone!
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