Kick start issues. Is there a way to fix/make easier..

pink09 · Post by **pink09** » Sun Oct 05, 2014 1:40 am

Hey, so I have to kick start my scooter b/c it was stolen and the ignition got pulled. Ever since it was stolen this last time, its a real pain in a** to kick start it. I know it takes a bit to get used to kickstarting and all that, but it is REALLY HARD to do it now- I'm talking like 20-50 kicks or so.
Does anyone know a way to fix this problem pretty simply? Like is there a piece u can replace or tighten that could make it easier to catch?
Btw, I have a 2009 Buddy 150cc.

Thanks.

Post by **jrsjr** » Sun Oct 05, 2014 5:47 am

The kick starter mechanism is not very robust. If you are kicking it that much, it won't take very long for you to wear it out or break it. I don't know what you mean when you say that the "ignition got pulled," but you need to find somebody who can figure out how get your electric start working again. Sorry.

pink09 · Post by **pink09** » Sun Oct 05, 2014 10:08 pm

Oh I mean it doesn't have an ignition. When they stole it, they took it out. Im also guessing they wore the kickstart out cuz its really hard to get it started. Was hoping someone knew of a YouTube video or some diagram or some instructions or something on how to fix a kick start. I just spent $440 on my scooter and dont hv anymore money towards it for awhile. (When I do, I'll definitely be getting a new ignition).

az_slynch · Post by **az_slynch** » Sun Oct 05, 2014 10:42 pm

Throwing darts here; I've fixed kickstarters on Sprees and Elite E's. Not quite the same animal, but close enough. First, let's check out the Buddy parts diagram from ScooterLounge:

I suspect that your kickstart shaft snap ring (#15) is missing or popped loose. That one clip is the only thing that holds that holds the arm in place. If the clip pops off, the kickstart quadrant (#12) will shift in and not engage the starting pawl (#8 ) properly. There's also a kickstart bushing (#13) that can wear out and cause alignment issues; it will get messed up if the snap ring pops out and the kicker shaft gets out of kilter.

So, start by checking that the kickstart lever (#16) is clamped tightly to the shaft and not slipping; it's a softer metal than the kickstart quadrant and will strip teeth and slip. Then, check for the snap ring on the kickstart shaft. It's on the shaft behind the kickstart lever on the outside of the case and will have a washer behind it. If it's there, pull out on the shaft and push the snap ring toward the case. If it slides and slicks into the slot on the shaft, you may be good. If it's missing, you'll need a new clip.

Assuming the kicker lever is good and the snap ring is seated, the next step would be to remove the M5 bolts (8mm head, #19) that hold the belt case on. Then, check the engagement teeth on the starting pawl (#8 ) and the teeth on the variator face. Those can wear down from repeated use and may require component replacement.

KrispyKreme · Post by **KrispyKreme** » Mon Oct 06, 2014 12:46 am

jrsjr wrote:The kick starter mechanism is not very robust. Sorry.

That is every freaking bike I have ever owned. 8 years old. Ripped the sprocket. Never liked them since.

pink09 · Post by **pink09** » Mon Oct 06, 2014 2:19 am

Thank you az_slynch! Really appreciate the info and diagram. It really seems like its something like that, cuz even the worst kicker would of had it started way before I, (and many others) have gotten it started. I'll check it out...

pink09 · Post by **pink09** » Sat Oct 11, 2014 9:01 am

Ive been busy w/ school/work and haven't been able to get in there yet, but wanted to ask a few things before opening up the case to the kick-start mechanism.

#1) Do I need any specific (or special) tools to open the kick start case, and take out the various pieces in there, (such as the kick start shaft snap ring, the bushing, the kickstart quadrant, starting prowl, or the spring thingy)?
(Or to put back on?)

#2) I don't need to drain the gear box oil to get into the case, do I?

Appreciate any further info on this. I have a feeling some part in there is either missing/loose, or maybe there's just a lot of dust and grime and stuff in there.

*Also, I did look at the outside of the case, and I'm pretty sure I saw the snap ring on the kickstarter shaft, and the washer behind it, (on the OUTSIDE of the case), which seems to look normal, (from my perspective). But I'm not exactly sure what you mean when you say to "pull out on the shaft and push the snap ring toward the case. If it slides and slicks into the slot on the shaft, you may be good, if its missing you may need a new clip".
Are you saying that the snap ring is on the outside of the case, or should go thru it? And does the bush go through the slot, or is it on the inside of the case?
I have a pic of this snap ring I wanted to post, but I couldn't figure out how to post a pic straight from my computer. I'll try n figure that out...

(sorry for so many questions...I'm still learning)...

Post by **jrsjr** » Sat Oct 11, 2014 2:30 pm

pink09 wrote:#1) Do I need any specific (or special) tools to open the kick start case, and take out the various pieces in there, (such as the kick start shaft snap ring, the bushing, the kickstart quadrant, starting prowl, or the spring thingy)? (Or to put back on?)

There is a special tool for snap rings but it's not absolutely necessary. You may not need it. Let's see what you have, first. To get started, all you need to do is remove the bolts and pull the cover off. The cover will come off with the starter assembly captive. If you look down below, I've included a page that shows what it will look like. Be sure to set the cover on something softer than concrete so you don't scratch it up while you're working on it.

The first thing you'll need to do is inspect to see if something obvious is wrong. If you're in doubt, please post a photo. Should you need to disassemble the starter mechanism, I've included below a screen grab of the page from the Genuine service manual that explains the disassembly. process.

pink09 wrote:#2) I don't need to drain the gear box oil to get into the case, do I?

Good question! There should not be any oil inside there. If there is, a seal has gone bad. So, no, you don't have to drain the oil to do this job.

pink09 wrote:*Also, I did look at the outside of the case, and I'm pretty sure I saw the snap ring on the kickstarter shaft, and the washer behind it, (on the OUTSIDE of the case), which seems to look normal, (from my perspective). But I'm not exactly sure what you mean when you say to "pull out on the shaft and push the snap ring toward the case. If it slides and slicks into the slot on the shaft, you may be good, if its missing you may need a new clip".

Are you saying that the snap ring is on the outside of the case, or should go thru it? And does the bush go through the slot, or is it on the inside of the case?

Compare what you have to the photo below. That shows what you should see if everything is in place. That's a Buddy (with an aftermarket kickstart lever).

pink09 wrote:I have a pic of this snap ring I wanted to post, but I couldn't figure out how to post a pic...

The simplest way is just to add it to your post. Down at the bottom of the screen when you're posting, there's a section called "ADD AN ATTACHMENT." To the right of the header "Filename," Hit the "Choose File" button. A window will open. Find your file. Depending on your OS, there's always a step where you open the file in that window. Then, when the focus drops back to the posting screen, add any descriptor info for the photo in the window to the right of the header "File Comment." I usually try to resize photos down to 900 pixels wide so the image doesn't cause the board software formatting problems when it renders the page with the image. Finally, hit the "Submit" button at the bottom of the ATTACHMENT section and the image will be included with your post.

Hope this helps! Good Lucks!

Howardr · Post by **Howardr** » Sun Oct 12, 2014 12:35 am

I had a Buddy 150 and could RARELY get it started with teh kicker. I had other bikes and had no difficulty, but the Buddy was terrible. Get the igition fixed.

Howard

Post by **jrsjr** » Sun Oct 12, 2014 1:15 am

Howardr wrote:I had a Buddy 150 and could RARELY get it started with teh kicker. I had other bikes and had no difficulty, but the Buddy was terrible. Get the igition fixed.

Yes. My first point in the second post of this thread.

Xsquader · Post by **Xsquader** » Sun Oct 12, 2014 1:20 am

jrsjr wrote:
Howardr wrote:I had a Buddy 150 and could RARELY get it started with teh kicker. I had other bikes and had no difficulty, but the Buddy was terrible. Get the igition fixed.
Yes. My first point in the second post of this thread.

I have a buddy 50 and you see what I am going through. I used the kick start for a while then it wore the teeth out on both gears, now it's cheaper to either fix the ignition or figure an alternative way to make it work. I cannot rely on that kickstarter I see now.

KrispyKreme · Post by **KrispyKreme** » Sun Oct 12, 2014 1:35 am

Use the "electric" starter. Big word.

ScooterDave · Post by **ScooterDave** » Sun Oct 12, 2014 6:07 am

pink09 wrote:Oh I mean it doesn't have an ignition. When they stole it, they took it out. Im also guessing they wore the kickstart out cuz its really hard to get it started. Was hoping someone knew of a YouTube video or some diagram or some instructions or something on how to fix a kick start. I just spent $440 on my scooter and dont hv anymore money towards it for awhile. (When I do, I'll definitely be getting a new ignition).

So, since it sounds like you are not a mechanic. You are going to split the case on your scooter and you may or may not have the correct tools. You are also aware that when you split the cases on bikes there are parts that you MUST replace like gaskets before you put it back together.

Seems to me that the easier solution is to run down to the auto parts store and look in the switch & buttons section and jury rig an ignition switch for 5 bucks instead of spending a day splitting cases and praying you are doing everything correct.