Who makes the best variator belt and why?
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Who makes the best variator belt and why?
I already have my Dr. Pulley Variator and slider kit ready to install once my engine brakes in and I was thinking that I should also replace the V-belt so that I can remove the old OEM parts as a set and put them away for future scooter sale.
I was thinking I should buy a new belt for when I install the Dr. Pulley kit and was wondering what recommendations experienced member might as to what better better then OEM V-belts are out there and why. I was thinking Kevlar or Extra-strength sounds good but have no idea what brands are best and why they are better.
Any Thoughts?
I was thinking I should buy a new belt for when I install the Dr. Pulley kit and was wondering what recommendations experienced member might as to what better better then OEM V-belts are out there and why. I was thinking Kevlar or Extra-strength sounds good but have no idea what brands are best and why they are better.
Any Thoughts?
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- Skootz Kabootz
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I can't recommend a particular belt (other than I've heard there is no advantage to using a kevlar belt on a Buddy as there is not enough torque to warrant it) but I can confirm that it is a good idea to put in a new belt when you change the variator. The new variator has a different ramp than your existing variator. Your existing belt is broken in to the ramp of your existing variator. You want a new belt so it can break in to the ramp of the new variator.
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I was wondering that very same thing, as to whether a used V-belt becomes matched to a particular variator type once it has been broke in, I suspect the same is true fir rollers. So OK I will remove the variato, belt and rollers as a matched set, keep them as new/used spares or maybe sell them as such.
What I am really looking for in a belt is durability and reliability as I don't want one to brake on me unexpectedly. Im wondering if kevlar belts never brake.
What I am really looking for in a belt is durability and reliability as I don't want one to brake on me unexpectedly. Im wondering if kevlar belts never brake.
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- Lostmycage
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The best belt maker? Bando. It's the OEM belt. Gates would be number one, but I don't recall them making one for the Buddy. It's been a while so I might be misremembering. If so, then Gates has a very solid reputation and I would go for them.
Kevlar will break, don't fall for that myth. I'm not saying that it will break prematurely, just that it isn't indestructable. The problem with Kevlar belts is that if/when they break, they shred in a way that requires a lot of work to fix.
The angles will be mismatched for a few miles, but the belt will wear to the surface angles of whatever variator you end up using.
Kevlar will break, don't fall for that myth. I'm not saying that it will break prematurely, just that it isn't indestructable. The problem with Kevlar belts is that if/when they break, they shred in a way that requires a lot of work to fix.
The angles will be mismatched for a few miles, but the belt will wear to the surface angles of whatever variator you end up using.
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Thanks, that gives me something to work with.
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- Howardr
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+1 on the Kevlar comment. mine shredded into a million tiny threads.Lostmycage wrote:The best belt maker? Bando. It's the OEM belt. Gates would be number one, but I don't recall them making one for the Buddy. It's been a while so I might be misremembering. If so, then Gates has a very solid reputation and I would go for them.
Kevlar will break, don't fall for that myth. I'm not saying that it will break prematurely, just that it isn't indestructable. The problem with Kevlar belts is that if/when they break, they shred in a way that requires a lot of work to fix.
The angles will be mismatched for a few miles, but the belt will wear to the surface angles of whatever variator you end up using.
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I say avoid kevlar. They do last longer, but it's not worth it. I wind up changing as often as with rubber because I fear having that damn think break, shred, wrap around my clutch or variator and lock up the back wheel. Rubber will just snap and flop around a bit.
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Because they're more expensive and harder to find, so they have to be better...jprestonian wrote:I have yet to see a single report of anyone who switched to a Kevlar belt that did not end in premature failure, and a severe PITA in getting it cleaned out of their pulleys. I scan a lot of scooter forums, and yet people seem to still be buying these thangs, and I cannot figure out why.
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Thanks everyone. Glad I was able to eliminate Kevlar, what do you think about the Gates Super Premium belt or any other ? Is it superior to stock and if so why or why not? Thanks in advance
An aside. SYD...The ride to Kingman from Bullhead is a 35 mile 2000 FT mountain climb on a winding cliffy highway in 95 degree heat, then a drop back down on the return trip with, some with 3% incline. Not exactly scooter territory. Id have to take my B1250 if I made that mountain trip. But thanks for reminding me that I need to take advantage of the ride by the river. I have to take turns on all my scoots, so today it was the 65 Honda CT90. Amazing that old thing starts literally on the 1st kick but need new front springs bad, so Im ordering them with 60% more resistance from a guy on the Honda CT90 trail forum for $85 each. I know expensive but everybody says they cure the bouncy blues.
An aside. SYD...The ride to Kingman from Bullhead is a 35 mile 2000 FT mountain climb on a winding cliffy highway in 95 degree heat, then a drop back down on the return trip with, some with 3% incline. Not exactly scooter territory. Id have to take my B1250 if I made that mountain trip. But thanks for reminding me that I need to take advantage of the ride by the river. I have to take turns on all my scoots, so today it was the 65 Honda CT90. Amazing that old thing starts literally on the 1st kick but need new front springs bad, so Im ordering them with 60% more resistance from a guy on the Honda CT90 trail forum for $85 each. I know expensive but everybody says they cure the bouncy blues.
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Thanks everyone. Glad I was able to eliminate Kevlar, what do you think about the Gates Super Premium belt or any other for $35? Is it superior to stock OEM and if so why or why not? Thanks in advance
An aside. SYD...The ride to Kingman from Bullhead is a 35 mile 2000 FT mountain climb on a winding cliffy highway in 95 degree heat, then a drop back down on the return trip with, some with 3% incline. Not exactly scooter territory. Id have to take my B1250 if I made that mountain trip. But thanks for reminding me that I need to take advantage of the ride by the river. I have to take turns on all my scoots, so today it was the 65 Honda CT90. Amazing that old thing starts literally on the 1st kick but need new front springs bad, so Im ordering them with 60% more resistance from a guy on the Honda CT90 trail forum for $85 each. I know expensive but everybody says they cure the bouncy blues.
An aside. SYD...The ride to Kingman from Bullhead is a 35 mile 2000 FT mountain climb on a winding cliffy highway in 95 degree heat, then a drop back down on the return trip with, some with 3% incline. Not exactly scooter territory. Id have to take my B1250 if I made that mountain trip. But thanks for reminding me that I need to take advantage of the ride by the river. I have to take turns on all my scoots, so today it was the 65 Honda CT90. Amazing that old thing starts literally on the 1st kick but need new front springs bad, so Im ordering them with 60% more resistance from a guy on the Honda CT90 trail forum for $85 each. I know expensive but everybody says they cure the bouncy blues.
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- Hellvis
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I cannot say about the durability of the other belts but I have changed out my belt at 10K miles and also only because I was changing out the rollers and noticed that the belt has worn, it might have lasted longer but I decided an all around replacement every 10K is not bad and I installed OEM parts because they are tested and reliable. Just my 2 cents.
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- Dean F
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The head mechanic at ScooterWorks told me to only use the stock Bando belt. It will last longer because it holds up to the heat better. It cost me $22.50 with a 10% off coupon I had.
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WOW! A CT90!
My first bike was a CT70. Geez jogging the old memory banks there. It's the first thing I thought of when I went looking for the scooters a couple weeks ago. "This RH50 reminds me of the CT70" !!
And a great bike it was...
My first bike was a CT70. Geez jogging the old memory banks there. It's the first thing I thought of when I went looking for the scooters a couple weeks ago. "This RH50 reminds me of the CT70" !!
And a great bike it was...
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Where did you buy it as I cant seem to find it. If you have a link to this OEM belt Id appreciate it.Dean F wrote:The head mechanic at ScooterWorks told me to only use the stock Bando belt. It will last longer because it holds up to the heat better. It cost me $22.50 with a 10% off coupon I had.
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- Dean F
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Just call:
1-888-968-3772 Toll-Free
They have almost every oem part for Genuine scooters. I have asked them why they are not in their online catalog and they say they are putting them in as quickly as they can.
Genuine part number: C212200000
1-888-968-3772 Toll-Free
They have almost every oem part for Genuine scooters. I have asked them why they are not in their online catalog and they say they are putting them in as quickly as they can.
Genuine part number: C212200000
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Chrome Rear Rack
Genuine Top Case
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Everstart 9-BS AGM Battery
Chrome Rear Rack
Genuine Top Case
Black Grips
Chrome Front Rack
Garmin GPS & Ram Mount
PIAA HS1
13g Dr. Pully Sliders
Everstart 9-BS AGM Battery
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Thanks so much, Ill call them.Dean F wrote:Just call:
1-888-968-3772 Toll-Free
They have almost every oem part for Genuine scooters. I have asked them why they are not in their online catalog and they say they are putting them in as quickly as they can.
Genuine part number: C212200000
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35 miles with 2000' elevation change? Your Buddy is more than equal to that task. There is one MB member who lives in the Verde Valley who regularly rode from Camp Verde to Payson, from Cottonwood to Prescott and up and down Yarnell Hill on his Buddy, in all seasons. The Buddy can take it.CWO4GUNNER wrote:Thanks everyone. Glad I was able to eliminate Kevlar, what do you think about the Gates Super Premium belt or any other ? Is it superior to stock and if so why or why not? Thanks in advance
An aside. SYD...The ride to Kingman from Bullhead is a 35 mile 2000 FT mountain climb on a winding cliffy highway in 95 degree heat, then a drop back down on the return trip with, some with 3% incline. Not exactly scooter territory...
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We Tucson folks ride Mt Lemmon with a 7000' elevation change. My Buddy and I have done it many times now. 2000-3000 feet elevation changes are routine in this area.Syd wrote:35 miles with 2000' elevation change? Your Buddy is more than equal to that task. There is one MB member who lives in the Verde Valley who regularly rode from Camp Verde to Payson, from Cottonwood to Prescott and up and down Yarnell Hill on his Buddy, in all seasons. The Buddy can take it.CWO4GUNNER wrote:Thanks everyone. Glad I was able to eliminate Kevlar, what do you think about the Gates Super Premium belt or any other ? Is it superior to stock and if so why or why not? Thanks in advance
An aside. SYD...The ride to Kingman from Bullhead is a 35 mile 2000 FT mountain climb on a winding cliffy highway in 95 degree heat, then a drop back down on the return trip with, some with 3% incline. Not exactly scooter territory...
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Im not saying it cant be done, but since I have a B1250 in the stable most of the time, I have to reserve those type arduous trips for the B1250 otherwise It gets its feeling hurt and I can almost hear it whimpering when I get back from a trip like that on the Buddy, or maybe its me I hear whimpering lol.Howardr wrote:We Tucson folks ride Mt Lemmon with a 7000' elevation change. My Buddy and I have done it many times now. 2000-3000 feet elevation changes are routine in this area.Syd wrote:35 miles with 2000' elevation change? Your Buddy is more than equal to that task. There is one MB member who lives in the Verde Valley who regularly rode from Camp Verde to Payson, from Cottonwood to Prescott and up and down Yarnell Hill on his Buddy, in all seasons. The Buddy can take it.CWO4GUNNER wrote:Thanks everyone. Glad I was able to eliminate Kevlar, what do you think about the Gates Super Premium belt or any other ? Is it superior to stock and if so why or why not? Thanks in advance
An aside. SYD...The ride to Kingman from Bullhead is a 35 mile 2000 FT mountain climb on a winding cliffy highway in 95 degree heat, then a drop back down on the return trip with, some with 3% incline. Not exactly scooter territory...
Howard
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Yeah, Im going to call Monday and order that stock OEM belt from Scooterworks. Mean time the DR Pully Variator and rollers sit on the shelf until I feel Shuttle-Shield (name of my Buddy) is broken in about another 100 miles. I also think Ill order another set of Dr Pully's rollers since I recently found out the #11's I ordered may be too much of a jump as I didn't know I have #13's stock, I don't want to go overboard on delayed takeoff for too much RPMs. The 13's are taking off fine, way better then the stock 12's I have in my sold Vino 125, beautiful scoot but what a dog the Vino was on take off, just slow enough to get you killed IMO. So maybe Ill order the belt and #12 sliding rollers also.
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OK Im slightly confused by your statement, so let me tell you what I think and tell me if I got it right or wrong.easy wrote:Thats the setup ive got in my blackjack Dr pully variator and 12 sliders works great lost just a tad on takeoff. Now its just quick from a stop before it was unloading the front end and wore out the back tire in 1800 miles.
* The buddy 150 comes stock with #13 rollers which are heavier then #11's. So if I am satisfied that my current #13's are doing a good job at fast takeoff at intersections, then installing a much lighter #11 will make my takeoff's even faster but with excessive RPM and maybe sacrificing top-end speed. Therefore shouldn't I buy Dr Pully's #13 so that the heavier rollers will get me max top-end speed while still providing the current adequate takeoff speed?
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OK I think I get what your saying about take off speed with the #12. So answer me this, If the Dr Pulley setup with #12's is giving you about the same satisfying take-off speed as just a tad less, how has your top speed been affected? Are you now able to reach higher speeds or is it about the same and how much do you weigh, cause I know that can be a factor especially on any incline?easy wrote:Thats the setup ive got in my blackjack Dr pully variator and 12 sliders works great lost just a tad on takeoff. Now its just quick from a stop before it was unloading the front end and wore out the back tire in 1800 miles.
I really want to avoid going in the CVT twice and so if you can answer these questions, I can extrapolate a solution best for me, I hope. I really appreciate your help
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- sotied
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Are you saying 10K is the lifespan of a belt or that the recommendation is to put a new one on by 10K?
I'm now a little skittish because I did a buttload of repair and service work on Scootle last Summer/Fall, but I can't remember if I had them change the belt. I was at 8000 at the time.
Now my mileage is 9200 or so and I'm starting to worry that the belt - and the scoot - will leave me sitting in a pile of sweat and tears at the side of the road.
Thoughts?
**When I replace the belt, do I do the Variator too? I replaced the roller weights last year.
Thanks,
I'm now a little skittish because I did a buttload of repair and service work on Scootle last Summer/Fall, but I can't remember if I had them change the belt. I was at 8000 at the time.
Now my mileage is 9200 or so and I'm starting to worry that the belt - and the scoot - will leave me sitting in a pile of sweat and tears at the side of the road.
Thoughts?
**When I replace the belt, do I do the Variator too? I replaced the roller weights last year.
Thanks,
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If you cant remember, call the service and ask them to look up your record see what was done. Of course you should have gotten a receipt with parts list. If not replace it.
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